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Endine stop running. Did not sputter just stopped. I checked fuel pressure,fuel pump all ok 45psi I have spark at the plugs. Change engine computer. When I put fuel in the intake it will start. What would cause the injectors not to open?
Answer -
How many injectors ? 2 or 4 or 6 ?.
6
How do you know the injectors are not opening ?.
I checked it with a noid checker turn over engine and I had no pulse of light. I had the ignition modual checked it was good. Replaced the cranckshaft sensor. This one is driving me crazy.
What mechanical work or ANY kind of work has been performed on the vehicle recently ?. As most problems that occur after a recent repair was made can be traced back to the area of where the repair was made as a vacuum line may have been knocked loose or a wire connection came loose, Look around in the area where work was performed..
autohelp
Answer -
OK, Check for battery voltage at one of the 2 wires at each injector electrical connector with the ignition switch ON. You should have battery voltage at ALL TIMES on one of the wires in each of the 6 connectors. The other wire in the connector is a PULSED GROUND that comes from the vehicles computer.
Did you perform ANY test procedures or did you just start replacing parts ?.Yes except the computer. Looking at what wiring prints I have the computer was the most likly problem. I Know the pusle signal from the computer is the problem,I do have voltage at the injectors plug on all of them.
Most people simply GUESS and start replacing parts and if there is a short circuit in any of the wiring within the fuel system circuitry you can destroy the new electronic components as soon as you turn ON the ignition switch.
You need to perform the diagnostic tests to determine WHERE the fault IS before you go replacing parts. Your fault could very well be a shorted wire going INTO or OUT OF the computer and you may have destroyed the fuel injector drivers in the new computer due to a shorted wire. No faults are showing up on the diagnostic or before I replaced any parts.
You need to test each and every circuit BEFORE you go replacing parts.
You may have a faulty ignition module, HOW did they test it ?.I took it in to AutoZone and they put it on there test unit,and ran the test several times.But I do not know if that checks the injector side of the unit.
You may have a faulty or misadjusted crankshaft sensor. Could be a faulty computer. I have seen numerous brand new parts right out of the box that were faulty.Is the crankshaft pick up bolted on to the crank or glued? How can I check to see if it is still there? The car will spark and when I put fuel in the intake it will start for a very short time.
Where did you get the new computer ?. Junk Yard ?.No I am not a junk yard dog . Autozone so far thats were I bought all my parts.Also I checked the wire harness all the way back to the computer.Do you know were I can get a copy of the wire print to pin out the computer wires to there units to see if there is a broken wire?
autohelp
autohelp
Answer -
WAIT A MINUTE. First you tell me you REPLACED the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR and NOW you ASK me:
Is the crankshaft pick up bolted on to the crank or glued? How can I check to see if it is still there?
There is NO WAY I can help you unless you give me accurate information.
WHICH IS IT ?. Did you replace it and adjust it CORRECTLY or NOT ?.
Yes I replaced it I was asking about the part inside the engine?
autohelp
Answer -
WHAT part inside the engine are you referring to ?. What ever the pickup uses as a source for sensing, or what is rotating in the engine that passes by the crackshaft sensor to give the postion of the engine.
autohelp
Answer -
All the sensor is IS a magnet. The part that is inside the engine is a large wheel on the crankshaft and I have NEVER seen one fail due to the size of it as it is made with the crankshaft.
E-mail me a picture of your crank shaft sensor:OK I will send it tomorrow morning Of both old and new one. There is no adjustment on the sensor it fits flat on the engine block. Do you think the ICM is bad? Even though it tested good?
meperganfortis@msn.com
autohelp
Answer -
IF your referring to the IGNITION MODULE, I would most likely have to say YES as I have no way of knowing if it was tested correctly.
But there is still the possibility that the module is GOOD.
I don't need to send you pictures of the sensor. I found the problem. It is a bad connection on the ECM on the lower plug which is the plug that supply the injectors.You have to move the unit just right to get the engine started,but it you move the wires just a small amout it wii stop running. No mainteance has been done is this area ever from what the original owner said.Must be light corrosion I tried to clean it up with no success. Do you know where I can get just the plug and pins to repair the harness or do I have to get a new harness?
autohelp
Answer -
And you DID NOT check these connections when you replaced the computer, Shame on you. I am not sure if you can purchase the pins from a dealer or not, I know you used to be able to.
Your only other solution would be and I hate to say it, I am am totally against junk yards, is to get one from there.
CAUTION: If this IS your ONLY option, Mkae sure that each and every wire is in the identical locations within the plastic connector. Check each and every one against your original connector.
Well Hell I put on the new connector and it did not fix the problem. I check all the wires coming into the computer,they all check good I also move harness around to see if there was a short,but nothing. The car did start when I moved the computer the other day. What are the only things in the systems that let the injectors firer? Crankshaft sensor and wiring checked good or replaced.ICM replaced and wires checked good. Engine computer replaced and wires checked good. I did notice something. When I went to the junk yard there where a lot of these engines in there.
Thanks so far
autohelp
Answer -
Your problem as we both know IS electrical. If you previously could get the engine started by manipulating the wiring harness, Then this is where your problem IS. In one of the electrical connectors.
It IS possible that the computer that you have now has an intermittent electrical connection inside of the computer just as your old one had. There could have been a problem with the pin connections where they are connected to the internal circuit board of the computer. If you have checked EVERY wire from the computer to the:
crank sensor, ignition module and the other electrical connections at every plug within the engine compartment using a digital meter and ALL checked out with quality continuity and you are POSITIVE that your carnk sensor, ignition module are OK, Then I would have to suspect the computer of an internal fault.
I have seen many brand new computers that were faulty right out of the box.
Since I can't be there to check all your electrical circuits for you, You have to do it and if it leads to a probable internal computer problem, Install another computer.
Unlees I had the vehicle at my facility and did the work myself, There is not much more that I can help you with.
Tell me EXACTLY how you replaced the computer electrical connector, Did you verify that every wire was in the identical position as your old connector or did you just match up the colors of the wires ?.
Did you solder all the wires together ?. Yes and I use Aircraft connectors with water resistant heat shrenk. I match up the connector all the wires were correct and double checked. I did order a replacement computer for tonight. Both crankshaft sensor check the same,so I left the new one in and I did replace ignition modulor with a new one, The old unit checked good.
autohelp
Answer -
I certainly hope you disconnected the battery BEFORE you soldered on those wires. You should have also DISCONNECTED all of the sensors on the vehicle as a pre-caution as it IS possible to damage the sensors via the heat from the soldering gun.
Let me know about the new computer.
Well I know how to get it running. I grounded out the wire to pulse the injectors and the car will start and run great for about 20 to 30 miles. Then it starts to cut out and die. If I ground out that wire again it starts up and runs great again. Do I have a ground wire that is only getting a partial ground ? Our is it in the injectors,are the sticking?
autohelp
AnswerWhat wire(s) are you grounding OUT ?. Are you grounding out the ground wire(s) that go to the injectors ?.
Remember this test:
OK, Check for battery voltage at one of the 2 wires at each injector electrical connector with the ignition switch ON. You should have battery voltage at ALL TIMES on one of the wires in each of the 6 connectors. The other wire in the connector is a PULSED GROUND that comes from the vehicles computer.
Take a test light and remove each 2 wire electrical connector at each injector and using your test light insert the ground clamp onto one wire of the injector connector and the tip of the test light into the other injector wire of the electrical injector connector and crank the engine. The test light should flash ON and OFF on EVERY injector electrical connector.
I believe what you have is a faulty ground circuit and I need to know what kind of work has been done on the vehicle PRIOR to this problem.
ANY WORK at ALL ?.
I have several electrical schematics that can be very useful in locating your most likely WIRE PROBLEM, But they cannot be sent thru this ALL EXPERTS website.
You will need to contact me at:
onlineautohelp@msn.com
In order for me to provide you pictures and procedures to fix your problem.
NOTE: This website is NOT mine and I am only a VOLUNTEER helping answer BASIC simple questions to those in need and this website does not allow pictures to be sent and or received.
Please include all of the information, MAKE, YEAR, MODEL, Engine size, and all necessary other information that you previously provided as well as the information that I just gave you when you contact me.
autohelp
