QuestionQUESTION: I have a problem of the ac unit shunting down after a few minutes.
Also I installed a line tap on the lo side. I got gas release when I removed the actuator rod. but I am unable to get any release when I manually depress the valve now.
I installed a hard start kit, but am having trouble keeping the ac unit running
ANSWER: pressure sensor? need a recharge? dirty condensor screen? evaporator filter?
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QUESTION: Thank you, I have cleaned both the evaporator and the condenser coils.
I put a new line tap and this one is working. My lo pressure at quiescent is 150 psi. Power supply is 123 VAC. Unit starts ok, pulls 24 amps on the run cycle. breaker trips in about 90 sec. I have removed condenser
filter for now. Explain pressure sensor? The compress ovl is ok I check that out. I replaced the split run capacitor. I am pulling 24 amps on the compressor, data plate says 12 amps running, 1 amp on the fan mtr.
This unit does not run long enough for me to get a lo pressure reading
while running. Any suggestions. BTW I got to fired for taking to long
to fix this unit. I still would like to know what else I could have done.
ANSWER: if data plate says 12a running and you are pulling 24a, then the trip could be due to double the load on the breaker. Try meggering the compressor motor for the compressor. If no megger, try using ohm meter to see if you have a short in the compressor motor. Also see if the compressor motor is spinning freely. You will have to disconnect the compressor from the motor to see if the shaft turns freely and easily. Also see if compressor shaft is not binding up. Sounds like your compressor or motor is being put under too much load. This could be caused by a bad shaft bearing on compressor or motor.
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QUESTION: Thank you;
Thes is a hermetic type of compressor ( sealed unit) 1/5 hp.
resistance reading are as follows; c to r = 2.1 ohms, c to s =.6 ohms,
r to s = 2.7 ohms. c, r, s, to grn = open. Electrically this is a good unit.
This is a roof type 15000 btu unit it has on hi or lo pressure cut out
It does have thermal overload ( that's not the problem#.
Ok this could be a mechanical problem. How to prove it? I hope to be better with my next employer. # I thought I was very good already, must not be) thanks for your help
Answernot to worry. You will be fine. You will find your place.
I am a certified RV mechanic, but by trade I work as an electrician in an industrial plant. when motors draw too much current and trip overloads, we usually go through the same trouble shooting as you did and eventually just change the motor or the driven device (ie. agitator gear box, pump, generator, etc.). Sometimes we find the overload itself is just faulty. Usually not though. Usually the motor swap fixes the problem. We find many times that a motor tested good, but had a bad front bearing you could not see, while installed. this is the mentality I used when answering the question the second time.
Good luck, and don't beat yourself up over this.
