RV Repair: Dometic RM2611 Refrigerator, dust accumulation, blown fuse

Question
When we went to our 1995 Prowler this weekend I noticed the refrigerator was not working properly.  It was on Auto and the check light was on.  I turned it off waited and turned it back on.  It went to AC where we want it and stayed there for approximately 15 - 30 minutes, then it went directly to Auto and the check light came back on.  We checked the fuses and they were all okay.  But we did put new ones in, just in case.  Is there some reason why it won't run on AC.  This camper is on a lot and doesn't travel anywhere.  Floor is level, all areas around have no dust accumulation.  We do not want it to run on anything but AC.  Is there anything else we can check?

Answer
Auto mode is electric 1st then gas. If no 110v is available it tries to light the gas. Do you have gas & is it turned on? I feel that the 110 power is not getting to the circuit board and the fridge is then trying to switch to gas mode.  Realizes the gas is off and turns on the Check light.

There is a factory recall on many of these refrigerators. Call Dometic 1800-544-4881 and give them your serial number and model number.


Here is another idea:

When on “Auto” and the RV is energized with 120-volts AC, both the “Auto” and “AC” lamps should light up. If not, there may be a blown fuse on the lower circuit board. It’s relatively easy to check if you have a volt, ohm multimeter. It’s possible you may have a problem with other components or wiring within the AC circuitry, but the most common cause is a blown AC fuse on the lower circuit board. But when it’s running on “Auto Mode,” that indicator lamp should remain lit.

Here’s what you can do; Unplug the refrigerator from the receptacle and gain access to the lower circuit board at the rear of the refrigerator. Then carefully remove the cover. Once removed, plug the refrigerator back in, power the RV with 120-volts AC and set the refrigerator to the “Auto Mode.” Next measure for AC voltage at terminals J5 and J6 on the board itself. If the unit is already cold, you may have to turn the thermostat to a lower temperature setting or wait until it warms a bit. You should also be able to measure the line voltage on terminals J7 and J8 as they lead directly to the AC heating element. If you don’t have voltage at these terminals, check for continuity of the 5-amp AC fuse and the 3-amp DC fuse on the board. Chances are the 3-amp DC fuse is good since the DC lamp works inside the refrigerator, but I’m guessing the 5-amp AC fuse is blown. A worst-case scenario is that the board itself is faulty. If indeed you can measure line voltage at terminals J7 and J8, then it’s possible you have a burned out heating element. If that is the case, I’d recommend a pro service tech do the replacement.

Also realize that if the serial number of your refrigerator is between 101XXXXX through 152XXXXX, it is subject to a recall notice. Ensure your unit has been retrofitted with the recall kit.