RV Repair: RV water damaged roof, class c rv, marine plywood


Question
QUESTION: A common problem.  I purchased a 10 year old class C RV last fall.  Not knowing much about RVs at that time, I come to find out this spring when getting it out of storage that the RV at one time must have suffered quite a bit of water damage.  

Walking on the front half of the roof, it's noticably soft.  I look for the cross members to hold my weight.  Inside, some previous water damage is visible on the ceiling, but it doesn't appear any new water is leaking in.

My question.  If no more leaks are present, is it ok to leave what damage is done (as it now appears to be dry)?  Will the inner integrity of the framing stay as is, or will it continue to rot, even when dry?

Thanks!

Gary

ANSWER: Well this is not good the problem is that it will grow mold. and the coach will continue to hold water in places you cannot see if the damage is that bad I bet you still have leaks and you need a new roof too. just cant tell untill you get into it. I would do a litle probing and check it out to see if you want send some pic lets see how bad it is




I wish I had better answers but check it out and let me know   

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the reply.  Pictures won't show anything, nothing is coming apart, but the top of the roof is notably soft towards the front of the RV.  The rear of the RV is fine, hard, feels like plywood underneath, but not really sure how the roof is made.  Are all RV roofs rubber coated? It's a 1998 Conquest Gulf Stream, if that helps.

I believe it's dry, it's been in a barn all winter long.  Plus, I have an allergy to mold and I have no issue when I'm in the RV.  To shore up the roof, I was thinking I could overlay perhaps 1/2 inch marine plywood over the soft area on the top and secure it with "liquid nails".  I'd rubber coat over that.  Let me know if I'm totally off the right track here, this is all new to me.

Gary

ANSWER: 1996 gulfstream was using rubber. The marine plywood need not to be the pressure treated or chemical treated it will cause problems with screws wires ect. I  would use something flexible like slicone on some thing that is plyable. That wont tear loose during travel

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Ok, I think I need to back up a bit here, bear in mind, I know nothing of the construction of rv roofs, this is all new to me.  You say the roof is a rubber roof.  I don't know what that exactly consists of, a thin rubber membrane over plywood?  Or perhaps a 1 inch piece of rubber secured over roof joists?

The issue is that the roof is noticeably soft in the entire front half.  Perhaps the antenna was the culprit, I don't know.  Somebody did some repair in the very front of the roof with maybe a 6 inch strip of something all across the front of the roof.  Everything was then coated over with a thin layer of what looks like white paint, but I'm sure it is some sort of sealer.  I do not believe the roof leaks now, a heavy rain didn't produce any water leaking on the inside and nothing feels damp in the ceiling.

So, my question, I need to know how the roof is constructed in order to understand what needs to be done to it.  Maybe I can even leave it as is, not sure.  

Again, it goes without saying that I appreciate you taking the time to enlighten me, thanks...

Gary

Answer
OK the use a truss or bow and they are 2 to 4 foot apart. The uses a decking on the roof can be 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch thick if it is bowing you should be fixed so it doesnt cause the roof to tear the ac will leak water on it and the rain will always be a problem. you may beable to pell it back and shore it up and reuse the rubber.



I hope this helps
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