Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): tiller will not start, front tine tiller, diagnostic instructions

Question
Bought a new craftsman 900 series front tine tiller last season--used 4 or 5 times and it started easy and ran perfectly. It has been sitting up since last summer. I just tried to prep it for this spring's work. I drained the oil, but I did tip the tiller toward the front to seep drainage (I bet that was a mistake#., changed the oil and filter. With  Had ran it out of gas last year, so I just added fresh gas. Not it will not start. I checked the spark plug and found it wet  with black fluid #suspected oil from the draining) so I cleaned up the plug. Also cleaned the air filter. Still will not start. Considering getting a new plug but I'm not optimistic. Any directional ideas? As you can tell I don't know a lot just enough to where I usually make things harder.

Answer
Hello David:

>>Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine and the Unit/Mower Model Numbers, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Engine Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. The Unit/Mower Model Numbers are Usually Located Under the Seat on a Sticker on the Body of the Mower and on the Frame of the Auger Housing on Most Tillers and Snow Throwers.
>>Here is a Basic Instruction File I am in the Process of Making. It will Might Say Mower, but a Snow Thrower/Blower is Powered by the Same Type of Engine, so the Diagnostics are Basically the Same. >>***Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Engine to Locate the Cause/Cure for a Hard/Not Starting Engine. This Does Not Include a Problem with the Valves. If I Suspected the Valves are Involved, then a Separate File for the Valves will be in this E-mail. This is a File in the Making, so Any Input is Appreciated.
>>1- Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace the Plug.
>>2- If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.
>>3- If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. *On Some JD Model Mower the Engines Use an Igniter. Remove the Igniter and Coil and have your Local JD Dealer Test them for you.
>>* **On Models with Point Set, the Condenser is Bad and the Point Set and Condenser should be Replaced as a Unit. Make Sure the Point Set Plunger is Fully Extended when Setting the Point Set Gap to .020in.
>>** If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat and the Plug was Firing, then Check the Compression.  If the Compression is Good, the Carburetor has Been Soaked and Cleaned and the Plug is Firing, then Check the Flywheel Key. If the Key is Damaged, then the Plug Firing is Incorrect to the Position of the Piston During the Compression (Power Stroke).
>>*** On the OHV and Some L-Head (Flat Head) Engines there is a Compression Release. The Exhaust Valve Clearance has to be Opened to .020in for the Compression Release Not to Operate; in Order to get a Correct Compression Reading.***
>>If you Hit a Snag, have More Questions or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Received Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John