QuestionQUESTION: I have a 95 6x4 gator. It will start fine, but here is the problem when going uphill on the roadways it will bog down and die but will start back up. I was told to check to see if I had spark to both plugs and I have. they are sparking out of the cylinder. Not sure if there is a short or a bad wire to one of the cylinder or a coil problem. upon removing the plugs I noticed that the back plug was black and the front looked fairly new and wet like it had not been firing at all. This is a twin cyclinder kawasaki engine FH601,Gasoline. I bought it used with no owners manual of any sort
ANSWER: >>Hello Scott:
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/parts.html and Select the K. Then Select Kawasaki. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Enter the Model Numbers FH601. Then Select your Model and Download the File for Online Viewing.
>>Check the Carburetor and Intake First.
>>The Carburetor is a 2bbl Carburetor.
>>It is Possible for 1 Cylinder to Receive Gas and the Other to Receive Little to No Gas if 1 Side of the Carburetor is Restricted and Not Allowing enough Gas/Air Mixture to Reach the Cylinder.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welsh Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>Note: **Pay Close Attention to the Adjusting Screws and Remember which Hole the were Removed from. They MUST be Replaced Into the SAME Hole they were Removed from!!!**
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Set the Idle Screw so the Engine will Idle (even if a little high) and then Using the Governor Arm (on chainsaws and trimmers use the Trigger) Rev the Engine Up and Down Until and Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links Below Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>Next is the Valve Clearances.
>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .006in - .008in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.**
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. I Hope you Had a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi, John
Thanks for your reply to my question, I have cleaned the carb. That didnt fix the problem I am moving forward to checking the valves,upon further inspection. i was checking the oil and it appears to have fuel in the oil could this also be from a stuck or bent valve or what do you suggest. I know there was no oil in tyhe oil the last time i checked it and that is pretty regular
AnswerHello Again Scott:
>>Gas in the Oil is Usually a Sign that the Head Gasket is Blown between the Push Tube Galley and the Compression Chamber or the Carburetor Float Needle Valve is Sticking and Flooding the Engine when Not in Use.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. I Hope you Had a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
