QuestionQUESTION: I have a JD 345 lawn tractor with a 20 hp Kawasaki engine (FD611V-BS01), it starts and runs great but after mowing the grass for 5 to 10 minutes it will sputter and stall. When it starts to stall I can keep it running by putting the choke on and usually it will run fine for a few more minutes but other times it will just stall. I don’t know if this is a coincidence or not but I noticed today that it stalls when I’m going uphill. I usually mow the grass up and down the hill but when I figured this out I mowed across the hill and it only sputtered once or twice as opposed to stalling all together. I also noticed the fuel filter isn’t full of fuel, less than half actually, but I think that has always been the case. It has a new fuel filter, a new fuel pump (it went up a month ago), and I also put a new solenoid in the carburetor as I thought that was the problem but wasn’t. I've searched the archives and tried everything I could come across but no success. I bought it new, there hasn't been any engine work as it hasn't needed any other than replacing some external parts mentioned above. Any suggestions, it seems like it’s not getting enough fuel but I don’t know what else to check. Thanks.
ANSWER: Hello Phillip:
>>Does the Engine Turn Over Easily when this Happens or Does it Turn as it Does when the Engine is First Started?
>>If the Engine Turns like it Does when First Started, then
A - >>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for this. Any Input is Appreciated. I Usually Suggest you Check the Following in this Order for a Problem like yours.
>>1- Check the Gas Tank Cap and Ensure it is Venting the Tank. A Vacuum Builds in the Tank and the Gas Flow Stops or Slows (15 to 45 Minutes and if the Small Granular Sand is in the Tank it can Take Several Days of Constant Running to Bring All the Sand Particles to the Tank Outlet Port) to a Point it Shuts Off the Engine.
>>2- Replace All the Spring Style Hose Clamps with Screw Style Hose Clamps on the Fuel System.
>>3- Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets or it is Overheating and Leaning Out the Fuel to the Engine.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>4- Operate the Equipment Until it Starts Surging or Quits (15min to 1hr). Then Immediately Check for Fire from the Plug. If the Plug is Firing, then
>>5- Depending on the Model Mower, it can Also be the Pickup Tube in the Gas Tank.
>>If No Fire, then Remove the Shut Off Wire from the Coil and Check for Fire.
>>If Still No Fire, then the Ign Module or Coil is Bad. **Even if the Coil is New or Fairly New, it can Still be Bad.** On JD Mowers; Remove the Igniter/Module and the Coil and have the Local JD Dealer Test them.
>>Usually on JD Mowers the Igniter is the Most Common cause for No Fire to the Plug.
B - >>If the Engine Turns Over Faster than when Started Cold, then
>>The Valves may Require Seating/Lapping or the Clearances may Require Setting.
>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .008 and the Exhaust to .008. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>Position the Piston so it is Completely at the Top of the Cylinder and then Set the Valve Clearances.
>>This Web Page; http://www.affordablegokarts.com/va
lve-lapping.php has a Fairly Good Description and Instructions on Valve Lapping and a Good Explanation of what to Look for when Seating the Valves.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John,
Thanks for your answer, I went over everything this weekend and I'm still having problems. I have narrowed it down to the fact that it only happens when I'm going uphill, that doesn't make sense to me but if it did I wouldn't be asking questions. I could drive the tractor all around but as soon as I go up a hill for a 30 sec or a minute it starts to stall. I can prevent it from stalling completely by putting the choke on and when I get to the top of the hill it eventually smoothes out, I can turn the choke off and it runs fine again. I replaced all the spring hose clamps with screw ones and the fuel filter is still not full of fuel, not sure if it is supposed to be or not. Any suggestions on what could be the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Below are the answers to your questions and what I did.
>>Does the Engine Turn Over Easily when this Happens or Does it Turn as it Does when the Engine is First Started?
It turns over just like it did when it is first started.
>>1- Check the Gas Tank Cap and Ensure it is Venting the Tank.
The gas cap is venting.
>>2- Replace All the Spring Style Hose Clamps with Screw Style Hose Clamps on the Fuel System.
Done.
>>3- Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
I bought a new one earlier and replaced it thinking that was the problem.
>>4- Operate the Equipment Until it Starts Surging or Quits (15min to 1hr). Then Immediately Check for Fire from the Plug.
There is still fire from the plug.
>>5- Depending on the Model Mower, it can Also be the Pickup Tube in the Gas Tank.
Took the pickup tube out, it is straight tube, nothing is clogged.
AnswerHello Again Phillip:
>>I Failed to Specifiy on the Pickup Tube; Look for a Pin Hole in the Pickup Tube as well as the Pickup Tube being Clogged.
>>Since the List I Sent you has been Checked/Corrected, then
>>Check the Fuel Pump and Carburetor Next.
>>Make Sure the Fuel Pump is Pumping Fuel to the Carburetor.
>>I usually Leave the Old Mechanical or Vaccumm Fuel Pumps where they are and Replace the Fuel Pumps with a 12VDC Pump (Mr Gasket Part Number 12S) and Wire it to Operate whenever the Key Switch is in the Run Position.
>>Soak and Clean the Carburetor. If the Internal Passages of the Carburetor are Slightly Restricted you will have the Problem Climbing Hills as you Described.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welsh Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>The Plastic Limit Covers on the Mixture Adjustment Screw/s are Broken Off and are Not Required Once the Carburetor is Re-Assembled.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>Note: **Pay Close Attention to the Adjusting Screws and Remember which Hole the were Removed from. They MUST be Replaced Into the SAME Hole they were Removed from!!!**
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Set the Idle Screw so the Engine will Idle (even if a little high) and then Using the Governor Arm (on chainsaws and trimmers use the Trigger) Rev the Engine Up and Down Until and Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links Below Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
