QuestionQUESTION: I have a Troy built Chipper-Vac, model #47282, Tecumseh H50-
65582V (B) 4059D. This is my second one. The first one I purchased new and it lasted about 12 years. This one I purchased in Nov.2006 as a returned unit with 2 weeks of use.
It quit last Dec. 2009. It just stopped. I thought it might be a rod. I took it back to the dealer for service. They confirmed it has a broken rod. They want to replace a short block for $700. I only paid $900 for it "new". Is it worth fixing? Is this a DIY project? I'm handy with tools & have done repairs on cars before.
Thanks
ANSWER: Hello Bruce:
>>I Tell my Customers that the Repairs should Never Cost more than Half of what a New Unit would Cost. Once the Repair Cost is at the Half Mark, A New Unit is Usually a Beter Choice.
>>You can call this a DIY Job if you can Locate a Resaonable Cost Short Block for this Unit.
>>If you Wish to do the Short Bock Replacement, then let me Know and I will Assist you with Answers to Any Questions you may have or I can give you the Detailed Procedure if Required.
>>It is a Simple Process to Replace the Short Block of Small Engines if you have the Tools and Time to do it.
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the T. Then Select Tecumseh. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Enter the Model Numbers . Then Select your Model and Download the File for Online Viewing.
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.partstree.com/parts/ and Enter the OEM Name and the Model Number in the Boxes at the Left of the Page Under the Heading "I don't know my Model!". Now Select the File you Wish to View.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks for the info. I found a short block for less than $300 including shipping. I could use the detailed procedure. I will need a gasket kit. I was also looking at a new engine- not a Tecumseh. Will it be hard to find some other engine that will match up to the Troy Bilt Chipper Vac?
Thanks
AnswerHi Again Bruce:
>>Any Engine that has the Same Crankshaft Diameter, Length and Keyway can be Used to Power this Chipper/Vac.
>>Your Local Small Engine Service Center should be More than Happy to Assist you in Selecting the Correct Replacement Engine from Any OEM. All the OEM's Produce the Same Quality Engine so I Really have No Preference for OEM's anymore. The Main Ones to STAY AWAY from are the Imported Engines from China. They have No Support in the US that I can Locate.
>>Were you able to Locate and Look at the Breakdown of this Engine at the Site Addy I Provided? I will be Using this Site and Breakdown for Reference.
>>Some Short Blocks have the Oil, but a Few Require you to Use your Old Engines Oil Pan, Flywheel, Coil and Carburetor.
>>The Following Instruction Files should Assist in Changing the Parts from One Engine Block to Another.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Examining the Inside of a Small Engine and will Assist you in having Access to the Governor, Oil Pump (if Applicable), Cam and Crankshaft Gear. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**This is a Simple Process. Drain the Oil and Remove the Engine to the Work Bench with the Oil Pan Facing Up. I have a Wooden Rest that was Especially Made to Hold the Engine when in this Position.
>>Using Fine Sand Paper, Remove ALL the Rust and Debris from the Crankshaft.
>>Remove ALL the Oil Pan Bolts.
>>After All the Oil Pan Bolts are Removed; Tap Lightly on the Sides of the Oil Pan to Loosen it from the Dowel Pins.
Sometimes you May have to Use a Flat Screw Driver or Chisel Between the Oil Pan/Sump at the Areas Neat to the Dowel Pin and Loosen the Oil Pan/Sump.
>>When the Oil Pan is Removed, you can See the Governor Resting on Top of the Cam Gear.
>>****If Required: Lift Off and Replace with a New Governor. Check the Engine Block for Debris from the Old Governor and Wipe the Inside of the Block With a Rag, Until Clean. Set the Governor Shaft So it will be Resting on the Governor whine the Oil Pan is Replaced and Carefully Replace the Oil Pan. If the Crankshaft Seal Was Not Leaking, then Leave it Alone. It Should be OK. You can Easily Replace it While Mounted on the Machine if Required Later. Make Sure the Governor Stays in Contact with the Governor Shaft while Replacing the Oil Pan. Re - Mount the Engine to the Machine. Refill With Oil. Your Internal Governor May Differ.**
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Removing Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Remove the Breather Assembly. Once the Air Filter is Removed you will See the Mounting Bolts for the Lower Section of the Breather Assembly. Once the Breather Assembly is Off the Carburetor you can See the 2 Mounting Bolts that Hold the Carburetor to the Intake Pipe. Disconnect the Carburetor Solenoid Wire. Turn Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor and Disconnect the Gas Line from the Carburetor. Unbolt the Carburetor from the Intake Pipe. ***I Suggest you Take a Few Good Pictures of the Carburetor Linkage where it Connects to the Carburetor and where it Connects to the Governor Assembly. This Way if you Forget How the Linkage was Attached you have a Way to View the Connections.***Once the 2 Bolts have Been Removed; Carefully Turn and Twist the Carburetor so the Linkage can be Removed from the Carburetor Throttle Plate. Soak, Clean and Rebuild or Replace the Carburetor. Simply Reverse the Above Procedure to Attach the Carburetor onto the Intake Pipe.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Setting the Governor Arm Correctly. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>If you Removed/Loosened the Governor Arm from the Governor Shaft or Put the Linkage in a Bind when the Carburetor was Removed, then Reset the Governor.
>>**To Reset the Governor; Loosen the Governor Arm Bolt and Turn the Governor Shaft Clockwise Until it Stops.
>>Using the Governor Arm Hold the Carburetor to Full Throttle. Now with the Shaft Full Clockwise and the Governor Arm and Carburetor Held at Full Throttle, Tighten the Governor Arm Bolt.
>>If the Engine Still Runs Full Throttle, then Reverse the Rotation of the Governor Shaft, but Still Hold the Carburetor at Full Throttle with the Governor Arm.
>>**If it Still Runs at Full Throttle, then Check the Internal Governor.**
>>Pay Attention to the Connection Points at the Carburetor and Governor Arm. I Suggest you Take Pictures for a Reference if you Think you Might Forget where the Connection Points are.
>>Thanks.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
