QuestionQUESTION: This engine is on your log splitter. We can get it started but it will not stay running. We have cleaned everything we can and it still does not stay running.
ANSWER: Hello Mark:
>>Did you Soak the Carburetor or Use Spray Cleaners?
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welsh Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>Note: **Pay Close Attention to the Adjusting Screws and Remember which Hole the were Removed from. They MUST be Replaced Into the SAME Hole they were Removed from!!!**
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Set the Idle Screw so the Engine will Idle (even if a little high) and then Using the Governor Arm (on chainsaws and trimmers use the Trigger) Rev the Engine Up and Down Until and Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links Below Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>Check the Valve Clearances.
>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .004in - .006in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.**
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>You can Locate the Valve Clearance Specs at this Site Addy; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/ and Select Valve Clearances Under you Engines OEM (). Then Set the Valve Clearances to the Specifications Listed on the Chart for your Engine.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John,
Thanks for the information. We cleaned the carb and it started great. We have a JD 317 Lawn tractor and it will start but when you engage the mower deck it dies. What would cause this to happen. I have checked for shorts, someone told us it could be the clutch. Thanks Again Mark
ANSWER: Hello Again Mark:
>>I am Glad the Other Engine is Running Correctly for you now.
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Seat Safety Switch is Bad or has a Bad Connection.
>>Check the Seat Safety Switch.
>>The Engine is Shutting Down because the Seat Safety is Not making Connection Properly and the Safety System is Showing No One is Sitting in the Operators Seat when the Blades are Engaged.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Checking the Seat Safety Switch.
>>***PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.***
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. **Make Sure the Switch has a Good Connection. Now; On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). The Seat Safety is Showing No One is Seating in the Seat when the Clutch or Blades are Engaged.**
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine and Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H and Enter the Model Numbers 317 and Click Find. Then Select your Model from the Search Results Area. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. *You can Drag the View Windows for Better Viewing.*
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John,
We purchased the mower used and the seat safety switch was already bypassed. We used it that way last season and the new problem started this season.
AnswerHi Mark:
>>If the Engine is Shutting Down like you have Turned Off the Key, then
>>Check the Connection where the Switch is bypassed. The Connection may be Corroded and Not making a Good Connection.
>>Check the Blade Safety Switch.
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire. Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Then Check the Oil Guard Switch (if Applicable). Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**
>>Use a Multi-meter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
>>If the Engine is Shutting Down Slowly, then
>>Check the Deck Pulleys and Idlers and make sure they are Turning Freely and Do Not have a Grinding Sound when Rotated.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
Hi Mark:
>>I Forgot to Mention the Charging System as a Possible cause.
>>With the Electric PTO, if the Charging System is Not Operating Correctly and you Engage the Blades the Engine Shuts Off because there is Not Enought Voltage to keep the Carburetor Solenoid Open and the Engine Shuts Off.
>>For Testing the Electrical (Charging) System on Mowers you can Use this Site Addy; http://engines.myfaqcenter.com/Answer.aspx?p_faqid=3438 and Use the Link for AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Setting Chart. This is for Briggs Engines and Works Well for Kohler, Kawasaki, Tecumseh, JD and Other Engine OEMs.
>>Thanks for Using All Experts.
Respectfully
John
