QuestionI have an mtd chipper shredder with a Briggs and Stratton motor model 135212-0140-01. I bought this second hand and it started right up the day we bought no problems. Then about 4 days later went to use it and it started right up then we noticed gas running out of the bottom of the gas tank. Looked like a perfect hole like a screw had fell out, so I put a short screw in the bottom of the tank to keep gas from running out. It has not started since, except when I pour gas in the carburetor and then will only run until gas is used up. Could you please help me to figure out what could be going on with this. I have also put new spark plug and new diaphragm. Thanks for your help
AnswerHello James:
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the B. Then Select Briggs and Stratton. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Select the File #13 . Then Select the Folder #135200. **Note: you can Download and Save the Breakdown for your Engine to your PC by Selecting the 2nd Icon from the Left at the Top of the PDF page.**
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Carburetor Pump Diaphragm (Breakdown #394) Requires Replacing or the Screw in the Tank has the Pickup Tube (#612) Blocked and Gas cannot be Pulled up to the Carburetor by the Carburetor Pump.
>>Check for Fire at the Plug.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Checking the Coil/Ign Coil/Magnetron/Armature on Small Engines. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>If the Unit Runs and Quits after 5 Minutes to 3/4 Hrs and will Restart after the Unit Cools (sometimes as little as 30min), then
>>Check for Spark as Soon as the Engine Quits.
>>Have a Good Plug with a Wire Around it Ready and when the Unit Quits Running, Remove the Plug Wire and Attach it to the Standby Plug. Check for Fire.
>> ***Be Careful, The Engine and Plug are Hot and I Suggest you Wear Gloves.***
>>If the Plug is Firing , then
>>Remove the Spark Plug from the Engine and USE IT to Check for Fire.
>>Sometimes a Spark Plug can have a Problem with Not Firing when Hot.
>>**To Check the Ign Coil if the Engine is Not Starting and Running at All; Remove the Spark Plug/s.
>>With a Good Plug, Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block.
>>Check for Fire at the Plug. If No Fire, then
>>Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module.
>>Now Check for Spark at the Plug.
>>If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad.
>>If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad and Check the Oil Guard Switch also.**
>>If the Plug is Firing, then
>>I Suggest you Remove the Tank and Carburetor from the Engine, making Note of How the Linkage is Connected (a Picture works Best); then Soak and Clean the Carburetor and Replace the Pump Diaphragm (B&S #272538), Tank Gasket (B&S #692241) and the Carburetor Intake/Mount Gasket (B&S #273113). **Repair the Hole in the Tank while the Tanks is Off the Engine with a Fiberglass Repair Kit (Used for Body Filler) from your Local Automotive Parts Retailer. If the Tank is Sanded and Cleaned Correctly, the Fiberglass will Close the Hole and you should have No more Leaks. I have also found that Permatex "Ultra Grey" is a Good Hole Sealer for Gas Tanks if the Area is Cleaned and the Silicone is Allowed to Cure Overnight and the Gas Does Not Break Down the Ultra Grey. I have Several Tanks that have been Repaired with it and it is has been Holding Good for 2 Years on a Couple of my Units.**
>>The Breakdown at the Site I Provided can Show you How to Assemble the Carburetor After it is Cleaned.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welsh Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>Note: **Pay Close Attention to the Adjusting Screws and Remember which Hole the were Removed from. They MUST be Replaced Into the SAME Hole they were Removed from!!!**
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Set the Idle Screw so the Engine will Idle (even if a little high) and then Using the Governor Arm (on chainsaws and trimmers use the Trigger) Rev the Engine Up and Down Until and Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links Below Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
