QuestionDear John,
I have a MW 5 hp tiller that is from 1976 and in very good shape. I feel I am not getting spark. I have bought a points kit and I know it goes behind the flywheel. What do I have to do to remove the fly wheel? Do I need a puller, etc. ? Just wondering before I start to tear it down. Thanks so much, Dan
AnswerHello Dan:
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel and Replacing the Point Set of Most Older Mower/Blower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. >>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. A Cardboard Side Panel from a Drink Carton will Work for Setting the Coil Clearance.
>>The Point Set is Under a Cover Under the Flywheel. The Point Gap is Set by Slowly Turning the Engine By Hand and Holding the Point Set Plunger with your Finger. When you Feel the Plunger is at the Outer Most Point of its Movement, then Stop Turning the Engine and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Point Set at .015in - .020in. .
>>On Tecumseh Engines, Set the Point Set into Place and Snug the Set Screw. Turn the Engine Until the Crankshaft Lobe that Actuates the Point Set is Fully Up on the Point Set Ear. Using a Flat Screw Driver, Open and Close the Point Set Until a Blade Feeler Gauge will Slide between the Contacts. Set the Gap to .015in and Lock the Point Set Down. **Do Not Loosen or Move the Point Set/Stator Plate. This is Not Really Required and it is Easier if Performed the way I Described and Not the Way the Tecumseh Manuals Suggest.**
>>You can Locate the Correct Specification (Bolt Torque, Valve Clearances, ect) for this Engine at this Site Addy; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/ and Select your Engines OEM and the Specification Chart you Require.
>>If the Engine is a Briggs and Stratton; You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the B. Then Select Briggs and Stratton. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Select the File # . Then Select the Folder #. **Note: you can Download and Save the Breakdown for your Engine by Selecting the 2nd Icon from the Left at the Top of the PDF page.**
>>If the Engine is a Tecumseh; You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the T. Then Select Tecumseh. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Enter the Model Numbers . Then Select your Model and Download the File for Online Viewing.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
