QuestionI have a Huskee mower with a Briggs and Stratton engine,and I have to replace the battery every year. It will start a few times after I put a brand new battery in, but I have to put it on a charger after that. After about a year , I have to replace the battery. I'm thinking this is an alternator problem. Also , if that is what it is, where is it located? This has been going on for about 3 years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
AnswerHello Culley Pierce:
>>Sorry for the Delay. This Question was Located in the Question Pool and I can Only Answer Questions from the Question Pool when I am Not Answering Questions here or at the Other Site I Answer Questions at.
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Stator/Charger or Voltage Regulator is Not Operating and Requires Replacing.
>>The Stator is Located Under the Flywheel and the Regulator (if Required for your Charging System) is Located on the Engine Block.
The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. The Stator (Charging Coil) is the Flywheel. Simply Disconnect the Wires, Unbolt the Stator and Replace with a New Stator. Assemble the Engine and you are Good to go.
>>For Testing the Electrical (Charging) System on Mowers you can Use this Site Addy; http://engines.myfaqcenter.com/Answer.aspx?p_faqid=3438 and Use the Link for AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Setting Chart. This is for Briggs Engines and Works Well for Kohler and Other Engine OEMs.
>>If you Jumped the Small Engine with an Automobile and the Auto Engine was Running at the Time, then the Auto Charging System Shorted the Small Engine Charging System.
>>****Never Use a Running Engine to Jump a Small Engine.****
>>The Charging Systems Usually are Different and the Larger AMP System will Short the Lower AMP System (Usually the Small Engine System).
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
