Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): JD LX 277, kawasaki engine, correct torque


Question
QUESTION: JD LX 277 w/Kawasaki engine. while mowing the lawn the motor acts likes it missing or flooding and runs like it's half powered until it cleans up. It comes and goes also and will only do it once the motor has ran for awhile and the colder it is the longer it runs well. I have removed and cleaned the carburetor and adjusted the valves per JD. I cannot purchase a rebuild kit for the carburetor and I don't want to buy a new yet. I am not sure if it is the problem. do you have any ideas on what it could be? I was thinking it could be a problem with ignition or something

ANSWER: Hello Danny McClung:

>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine and Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H and Enter the Model Numbers LX277 and Click Find. Then Select your Model from the Search Results Area. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. *You can Drag the View Windows and Enlarge them for Better Viewing.*
>>Make Sure the Head Bolts are Tighten to the Correct Torque.
>>The Head Gasket May be Blown/Leaking.
>>Check the Carburetor Fuel Shut Off Solenoid.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.**  **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>The Cooler the Temperature the Less Likely the Solenoid is to Cause Problems.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the suggestions. It's been so long since I've mowed with it I forgot a few things but it seems after it runs a few minutes and gets warm it starts running ruff and under powered. It will do this for awhile and will clear up and act up again while mowing. Last year it got to the point where it would shut off and only way I could try to keep it from happening was to close the choke about half way and run it like that for awhile but it will still shut off. I have to give it a few minutes before it will restart. A lot of the times before it restarts it will backfire back thru the carburetor and once it does that a time or 2 it will start up and finish mowing and not shutoff again but it will run rough at times thru out mowing. I have tested the solenoid and that is not the problem. I also adjusted the valves and that did not help matters much. I think it’s in the carb and I’ve have cleaned it with cleaner. I even let it soak in a cleaner for several hours. It acts like it has trash in it somewhere. I did remove the jets and all when I cleaned it. If I knew for sure it was the carb I’d replace it but I’d hate to spend that kind of money and not be the problem. If you know of anything else that could be causing this problem I am open to suggestions. I thought maybe a coil breaking down after it gets warm but I don’t think it would clear up and run for an hour or so once it cooled off.

Answer
Hello Again Danny:

>>Have you Performed the Carburetor Solenoid Check? The Solenoid will cause the Engine to Perform as you Described.
>>Also, Change All the Spring Style Hose Clamps in the Fuel System and to the Screw Style Clamps. It is Possible the Carburetor is Drawing Air around 1 of the Connections.
>>If the Solenoid is Leaning the Gas too much to the Engine, then you will have Backfiring as you Described.
>>As Always, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 5 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John