Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): John Deere 180 Lawn tractor, spark plug gap, feeler gauge

Question
I just recently bought a 180 at a local auction that is in great condition. It's seems to run and mow ok but I plan going over it this winter and greasing and checking all the bearings for wear. Is there anything else I could do(to the rear end, trans ect) to further extend the life of this mower ?  

Thanks

Answer
Steve
What you are doing is great consider this. Here is what you should do at the end of the mowing season:

   * Change the oil. If you do nothing else in this list, at least change the oil. Old dirty oil will shorten the life of your engine and affect its starting and running performance eventually.

Drain the fuel tank. Put this and any fresh (unmixed) gas remaining in your gas supply can into your car's fuel tank (preferably at least half full to dilute it) so you won't be tempted to use it next season. Or, discard it in an environmentally friendly manner. Then run the mower until it stops from lack of gas which will use up the gas still remaining in the carburetor (at most a couple of minutes). Purging the engine of old gasoline is particularly important for float type carburetors. Otherwise, evaporation and oxidation may result in the formation of insoluble gum which will eventually clog up your carburetor.   

# Inspect the air filter (and fuel filter if present). If dirty or clogged, clean or replace as appropriate.

# Remove and inspect the spark plug. The curved electrode and tip should be smooth and light gray or brown in appearance. If they have deteriorated or are damaged in any way, replace the spark plug. Engine repair books usually recommend replacing the plug in any case - they are inexpensive, under $2. Use the proper small engine spark plug - not one you found in the corner of your toolbox or removed from your automobile! A bad spark plug is a major cause of a hard-to-start engine. Check the spark plug gap (new or used) with a feeler gauge - it should be .030" for most small engines. Carefully bend the curved electrode to adjust - do not file the center electrode!

# Squirt a teaspoon or so of fresh engine oil into the spark plug hole so that it coats all sides of the cylinder. WD40 will work as well since its purpose is protection and not lubrication. Then crank the engine a couple of times to distribute it. The oil will protect the cast iron cylinder liner and piston rings from rust during the off-season.

# Clean above and below deck to remove dirt, leaves, and other debris. Pay particular attention to the area around the cylinder under the shroud (blower housing). Remove any leaves or other debris that might impede the all important air flow.

# While underneath, inspect the blade for serious damage that would require resharpening or replacement. It doesn't have to be honed like a scalpel but there should not be too many deep nicks and it should not wobble noticeably or be bent or have bent or distorted tips.

# If you have a battery for electric start, make sure the water reservoir (if not the maintenance-free type) is topped off, the terminals are clean and tight, and that it is fully charged.

# Put a light coating of oil on any exposed unpainted steel parts. Check any front wheel drive components - chains, idlers, pulleys, and clean and lubricate if necessary. Dribble a few drops of light oil into any throttle, choke, safety interlock, or other cables.

# Store the mower in a dry location supported off of the floor on wood blocks if there is any chance of flooding.

Then, when it comes time to start mowing again (yes, I know, you can't wait), all you should have to do is add fresh gas (don't use last season's). The mower should start on the first (well, maybe, second) pull. There may be some white/blue smoke for a few seconds from it burning off the oil coating on the cylinder walls but this should quickly disappear.