QuestionWe have a craftsman 19.5 turbo twin riding lawn mower and it won't turn
over. It was running fine and it was turned off for a few moments and now it
won't start. It acts like it's getting no juice, so we jumped it, but it still won't
start. It turns over about 1 1/2 times then stops. Also, it started smoking
from what we think is the solenoid (as you are sitting in the seat, on the left
side, in front of the battery, but lower), and the round thing was very hot. I
checked the air filter and carberator, but not the spark plug. Could it be what
we think is the solenoid ?
Thank you,
Corie
AnswerHello Corie:
>>If you Jumped the Small Engine with an Automobile and the Auto Engine was Running at the Time, then the Auto Charging System Shorted the Small Engine Charging System.
>>****Never Use a Running Engine to Jump a Small Engine.****
>>The Charging Systems Usually are Different and the Larger AMP System will Short the Lower AMP System (Usually the Small Engine System).
>>Most Stators can be Tested Using the Guide at the Following Site Addy; For Testing the Electrical (Charging) System on Mowers you can Use this Site Addy; http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3438&p... and Use the Link for AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Setting Chart. This is for Briggs Engines and Works Well for Kohler and Other Engine OEMs.
>>Is the Battery Fully Charged?
>>Are the Valve Clearances Correct?
>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .006in - .008in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.**
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>On Some Engines you can Us a Straightened Coat Hanger and Feel the Piston.
>>Be Careful and Don't Jam the Wire in the Cylinder. Usually the Piston will Push the Wire Out of the Spark Plug Hole with No Problems.
>>From your Description it Sounds like a Safety Switch is Preventing the Ign from Starting the Engine, the Starter Solenoid is Bad or the Charging System is Not Charging the Battery Properly.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Checking/Testing the Starter and Solenoid.
>>**(with the Spark Plug/s Removed) To Check the Solenoid and Starter, Once you are Sure the Battery is Fully Charged/New, then Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery (make sure the Battery is Fully Charged or is a New Battery).
>>Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter.
>>If the Starter Does Not Turn and you can turn the Engine by Hand, then the Starter is Bad.
>>If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid that has the Ign Wire Attached to it.
If the Solenoid Does Not Click, then a Safety Switch is Preventing the Starter System from Operating and the Safety Switch must be Replaced to Correct this Problem.
>>If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad.**
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire. Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Then Check the Oil Guard Switch (if Applicable). Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**
>>Use a Multimeter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
