QuestionQUESTION: Back again about replacing the rod in my B&S 170402 engine. I finally got the oil pan off. Instead of taking the starter off and pulling the whole crank along with the cover as you suggested may need to be done, when I got the cover lifted a bit, I stuck a cold chisel in and tapped lightly hoping it would wedge the cover up. When it started, I used a hammer to tap down on the shaft. This loosened the cover enough so the chisel fell out. I put it back in and tapped it in a bit tighter, then tapped the shaft. Going through this several times finally loosened the cover enough so it could be removed.
There were 4 pieces of broken rod, a slightly twisted dipper and the governor loose on the inside. Using B&S manual part #270962 that I bought over 20 years ago, I figured out where the governor goes inside the cover.
Doesn't seem to be any wear on the governor, shaft, or governor gears. The timing marks line up perfectly. I used a dial caliper to check the tolerences in several areas on the shaft and all are ok.
I found one source on the internet that has a rod. I'm just waiting for them to confirm they are sure it is the right model number.
Is a rimg compressor necessary or could a home-made compressor be made from a good solid tin can slit up the side, or a piece of sheet metal and squeezed together with a ring clamp.
I have the inside cleaned out and think got all the little pieces. Before putting it back together, is there anything in particular I should do or look for?
There is a groove around the inside of the hole that fits over the shaft, just below the top edge. Is something suppose to go there? I didn't notice anything coming out of it.
Is there a way to know if the oil seal around the shaft is ok?
ANSWER: Hi Again Jerry:
>>The Groove is an Oil Groove for the Crankshaft and Oil Pan/Sump.
>>You can Use a Screw Style Hose Clamp as a Ring Compressor. I have Used them Several Times before I had the Funds to Purchase the Correct Ring Compressor for the Shop. That was a Long Time Ago. LOL.
>>Does the Piston have a "V" in the Face? If Yes, then the Piston should be Installed with the "V" in the Same Direction as it was when you Removed it.
>>Remember that the Connecting Rod is Usually Installed in the Engine so the Rod Cap Faces the Cam and After the Oil Slinger and Rod are Bolted to the Crankshaft, Turn the Crankshaft and Make Sure the Oil Slinger is Not Hitting Anything.
>>Use White Lith Grease on the Connecting Rod and Crankshaft Mating Surfaces when Assembling.
>>This Addy is a Video of an Engine Rebuild; http://www.tarleton.edu/~mcgregor/A%20EN%202013/2013%20Labs/Reassembly/OHV.Reass . It is a Microsoft Powerpoint Presentation Format and is a Download File.
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I found a source of new old parts and they have a connecting rod. In the parts list with the blow-up diagram of the engine, two size rods are mentioned. The regular rod and one to fit a .020 undersize crankpin bearing. Which should I use?
I also have a Lawnboy mower that needs a rod and have been told there are several needle bearings in this. It's a Tecumseh engine I believe. As far as I can tell, there weren't any such bearings in this B&S engine. Is that normal or did they disappear somewhere in the engine?
One more question. The engine parts list mentions 3 different size crankcase gaskets, 1/64", .005 thick gasket and a .009 gasket. Which should I use? Should gasket cement be used when installing these gaskets?
Thanks.
AnswerHi Jerry:
>>If the Engine has Never been Rebuilt before, then the Crankshaft should be Standard. Mic the Shaft Journal and Use the Information at this Site Addy; http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=1487 and Click on the Replacement Engine Catalog. This Catalog has the Specification of the Crankshaft Journals and Other Good Briggs Engine Specifications. >>If the Journal Mics the Correct Size for a Standard Crankshaft, then Use the Regular/Standard Rod. Otherwise you will have to Replace the Crankshaft and Rod Together and then you can Use Either a Stand Crankshaft or a .020 Undersize Crankshaft with the Matching Rod.
>>For the Oil Pan/Sump Gasket, I Usually Use the 1/64" Gasket and Indian Head Gasket Sealer on the Oil Pan/Sump Side of the Gasket Only. This Hold the Gasket to the Sump and it will Not Move. It is Harder to Remove the Old Gasket if it is Ever Require to be Replaced, but you will Not have a Problem with the Gasket Blowing Out if the Crankcase Breather Clogs Up and the Crankcase Pressure gets too High.
>>In this Situtation, the Oil will be Push Out Around the Crankshaft Seals and Usually, just Cleaning the Crankcase Vent is All that is Required. When Using Silicone Gasket Maker/Sealer, the Oil Pan/Sump Gasket will Usually Blow Out if the Crankcase Vent Clogs and then you have to Remove the Engine from the Unit and Replace the Oil Pan/Sump Gasket.
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please and as Always, May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
