Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Repairs to Honda GC160, honda gc160, compression stroke


Question
QUESTION: Hello John, I live on a small island in South Pacific with no access to spares. Have a Honda GC160 with a Karcher K 2400 HH water blaster attached. The Honda is a GCAHA-1172908. The motor was going and I stopped for lunch and tried to restart but no go. Have completely cleaned carburetor (now OK) and checked small fuel pump (working OK)checked timing marks as it is an OHC engine and timing is set correctly. Exhaust tappet was quite loose and reset. Cleaned Coil terminals and flywheel as were a bit rusty (Now OK)and there is a good spark. Cannot work out why it won't start. With Airfilter removed there is an ocassional backfire with small flame back out the carburetor but it won't fire up, kick over. Appreciate any advise you might be able to give. Many thnaks. Bob

ANSWER: Hello Robert:

You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower/Engine at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainfram and Select the Catalog American Honda. Select the Engine File. I Used the G160A - DHAF Engine for Reference. Are you Sure the Engine was at TDC on the Compression Stroke when you Set the Tappet? Did you Set the Intake Tappet also? The Small Backfire and Flames Usually Indicate 1 of the Following: 1- the Intake Valve Clearance Requires Setting. 2- the Intake Valve is Burnt and Requires Lapping (seating). 3- the Timming Belt has Jumped a Tooth and the Timming Requires Setting. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello again John, greetings again from the South Pacific. Appreciated your last reply.  All the best for the New Year. I have checked eveything and I still get a backfire in the carby after I dip the sparkplug in gas to wet it but the machine won't fire up. Can you tell me  if setting .005in for Intake valve clearance and .007in for Exhaust is OK? When I set this I have TDC on the compression stroke (correct me if I'm wrong, but the compression stroke is when the piston is to the top of the cylinder and both valves are closed so setting tappet clearance can be done. The timing marks are then level with the top of the housing and the key on the shaft is to the top). Is this correct?. Many Thanks. In His Service, Robert

Answer
Hello Again Robert:

The .005in - .007in are Within the Specifications Called for by Honda (.006in +/- .001in and .008in +/- .001in). I Use .007in +/- .001in Intake and .009in +/- .001in Exhaust. After Re-reading our Conversation from Yesterday, I See I Failed to Ask About the Flywheel Key (Woodruff Key). Did you Check the Flywheel Key and make Sure it is Not Damaged. I have to Ask, Did you Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Cleaning Solution or Did you Clean the Carburetor by Hand Using Spray Cleaner and Wire? If you have Not Soaked the Carburetor, then it is Still Restricted (there are Internal Passages that you Cannot Clean with Wire and can be Causing this Problem. Other than the Causes I Listed in the Other E-mail, the Flywheel Key is the Only Item I Failed to Mention. I Suggest you Check the Flywheel Key and Carburetor Again. Instead of Puting Gas on the Plug, try this Method for Checking the Carburetor; **Pour a Small Amount (approx 1oz) of Fuel Into the Carburetor Throat while Holding the Throttle at Full. Still Holding the Throttle at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits (it May run for 30 Seconds and then Backfire and Quit), then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** More Gas is Required that that on the Plug. By Pouring Gas Into the Carburetor Throat, the Gas Vapors are Pulled into the Engine and Burned until the Vapors are Gone, then the Engine will Quit. If you Use this Method to Check the Carburetor and Engine and the Engine Just Backfires, the the Timing Belt, the Flywheel Key or the Valve were Set with the Engine on the Wrong Stroke are Going to be the Cause for this Problem. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. I Hope you Had a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John