QuestionQUESTION: Hello John. I have an older 8 h.p. Briggs engine on my Simplicity 870 Two Stage Snowblower. I choke the engine to start, back the choke off a little, and after a couple of minutes turn off the choke completely. After about 10 minutes of work the engine will begin to run rough. If I then manually adjust the carb screw the engine will smooth out and run great. I don't think I should be constantly adusting the carb. Carb, fuel tank, fuel line are as clean as a whistle, fresh gas. What do you suggest?
ANSWER: Hello Bill:
From your Description it Sounds like there May be a Valve Problem. If you are Sure the Carburetor is Clean (has been Soaked Overnight, ect), then Depending on the Engine Model, the Valve Clearances Require Setting or there is a Compression Loss Usually Due to Bad Rings or a Bad Head Gasket. Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. Many horizontal shaft, overhead valve engines have these numbers stamped into the OHV rocker cover. However, on certain overhead valve powered generators, the equipment manufacturer installs a decorative chrome rocker cover OVER the Briggs cover. If your engine has a decorative cover, it may be necessary to remove it in order to locate the Model, Type, and Code. You can Also Use this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/BS_modeltypecode.pdf for Assistance in Locating the Model, Type and Code Numbers of the Engine. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hello John. Here you go:
Model: 190402
Type: 0696-02
Code: 720 5101
Simplicity ID: 870 02982
Could you also direct me where/how to get a new scraper blade? Thanks -
Bill
P.S. Head Gasket is new/1 year old.
AnswerHello Again Bill:
You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model (5 or 6 Digits) and Type Numbers (first 4 digits Only). Example: 190402-0696. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Select Sectional Index. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. What Brand Scraper Do you Have? Does it Use the Replaceable Razor Blades? If Yes, then the Blades are Available from your Local Hardware Store. The Replacement Blades for these are the Same as the Blades for a Utility Roofing Knife. When were the Point Set Last Replaced? Sticking Contacts on the Point Set will Cause the Problem you Described. The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel and Replacing the Point Sets of Most Older Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. The Point Set is Under a Cover Under the Flywheel. The Point Gap is Set by Slowly Turning the Engine By Hand and Holding the Point Set Plunger with your Finger. When you Feel the Plunger is at the Outer Most Point of its Movement, then Stop Turning the Engine and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Point Set at .015in - .020in. . Is it Possible that the Flywheel Key has been Damaged? If the Flywheel Key is Damaged it will Cause the Problem you Described. The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. If the Flywheel Key is Good, then the Valve Clearances May Require Setting and Seating. the Following is a Basic Instruction File for Setting the Valve Clearances on Non OHV Engines. If you Provided me with the Correct Make and Model of the Engine then the Specifications are Included. If Not I May be Able to Provide the Specifications if you Supply me the Make and Model Numbers. The Most Common Clearances are Listed for this Engine in the Following File. Thanks. Any Input is Appreciated. On this Model Engine I Usually Suggest Reseating the Valves if the Valve Clearance Requires Adjusting. The Following is a General Instruction File for Setting the Valve Clearance on Non OHV Engines. **Remove the Carburetor and the Crankcase Breather/Vent and the Valve (Stem) Cover so you have Access to the Valve Stems, Springs and Keepers. Set 1 Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke. Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Check the Clearances. The Intake should be .005in - .007in and Exhaust .008in - .010in. If the Feeler Gauge will Not Slide Between the Valve Tip and the Tappet, then you Must Reset the Clearances. **You Will Require a Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor to Remove the Springs and Keepers from the Valve Stems.** Some Engines Use a Valve Keeper that is like Automotive Keepers (2 Cone Shaped Keepers that Set in the Valve Retainer/Rotocoil Assembly)and the Other Style is a Slotted Retainer that is Moved (once the Valve Spring is Compressed) to the Larger Opening in the Retainer and the Retainer Slips Over the Valve Stem Tip for the Valve to be Removed. Remove the Heads. Set 1 Cylinder so the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke And Check the Clearances Between the Valve Stem Tip and the Tappet. The Clearances are as Follows: Intake Valve Clearance is .005in - .007in and the Exhaust is .008in - .010in. You have to Lightly Grind the Valve Stem Tip and Place the Valve Back Into the Engine (you can Hold the Valve Seated by Hand) and Check the Clearance Until you Reach the Required Clearances. **++** For this Engine Model I Suggest you Reseat the Valves while you are Setting the Correct Valve Clearance. For this you will Need a Small Valve Seat Suction Tool. This can Usually be Purchased for $10.00us and has a Suction Cup that Hold the Valve Head so you can Turn the Valve Back and Forth and Dress up the Valve Seat. Valve Grinding Compound is Approximately $5.00us a Tube and a Tube Last the Shop About a Year. It Doesn't Take a Lot to Reseat 1 Engine.**++** Once the Valve Clearances are Reached and the Valve Seat is Nice and Dull; Re-Install the Valves on that Cylinder and Turn the Other Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke and Set that Cylinders Valve Clearances. Once that Cylinder is Set, then Assemble the Engine.** If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
