QuestionQUESTION: I have a B&S Power Built Snow Intek Snow (Model 20E214). After priming the engine will start, run a few seconds and die. Think the reason is the spark plug keeps getting gummed up, because the storage instructions say to pour 1/2 oz of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug opening. How can I get this excess oil out? Or do you think it may be something else?
ANSWER: Oh it's something else all right, it needs a complete carb rebuild and deep cleaning. If it was the spark plug she'd never fire at all. It is running off the squirt of fuel put into the carb from the priming circuit, as it should, after that it is expected to pull it's own fuel up from the main jets, and circuit. Obviously can't, it is either clogged with debris, or gummed up. Those circuits through the carb are almost the size of a hair, it doesn't take much. The main jets are just as small. So looking into the crystal ball I see a carburetor rebuild, and Complete clean out in your future. If this is something your ability allows then you can get good detailed directions online with illustrations usually. If not get it to your local shop. Just keep in mind, if the carb is brought in off the blower it will be less expensive than dropping off the whole unit. But may require you to do a finally adjustment it your able...........Tom
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QUESTION: A complete carb rebuild? I just bought the blower last December, and ran it for approx 10 hrs. I followed the maintenance schedule to a tee. Is there something I can try prior to bring it in for a possible rebuild?
AnswerUnless there is no fuel getting to the carb, either a clogged fuel line, fuel filter, fuel shut off not open, or such, it's the carb. If you remove the line and there is fuel present, and free flowing, it without a doubt the carb. Just because it is almost new, doesn't mean it hasn't picked something up in the fuel, and blocked or clogged the carb. Not to mention if you bought it last Dec. less than a year ago, is your warranty still intact? An other thing, I'm not a big fan on how they tell people to prepare these units for off season storage either. I'll go on record for saying so. They tell you to drain the fuel from the tank, and then run the engine till it dies from using all the remaining fuel in the carb. That's BS, it dies when the level in the carb drops enough it doesn't have enough fuel, not that all the remaining deposits are gone. This little amount left behind is enough to cause gum, and varnish to form over time, and enough to make a tiny little float needle stick in it's seat not allowing fuel to enter the carb. I am a bigger fan on always adding fuel stabilizer to your fuel. Then when your done using the equipment, you need do nothing but put it away in your shed. The fuel then stays fresh for up to 24 months. Doing it this way I have had ZERO problems come time to use, and start them........Tom
Then I'll tell you what, you used more than a 1/2 oz of oil, 1/2 ounce would not have stopped it from starting. So then you would have not followed the storage instructions to a "Tee"..........Also I would say you flooded the engine trying to start it as well and added to the condition by flooding the cylinder while fuel at the sametime,,,
