QuestionQUESTION: I have a B&S engine, taken from a Simplicity snowblower. If I remameber correctly, the snowblower model number indicates it was made in 1970 or 1971.
It has a B&S engine. The label with the engine model, etc., is well worn. There is a number stamped into the metal right under the label.
That number is 170402 0714-01 700625.
Can the engine model number be determined from the above number? Is this number the engine model number?
This engine was removed from the snowblower several years ago. It was my father's and the oil got low and while he was using it, the engine stalled and froze up.
It has been sitting covered, outside. Today I brought it in. I thought the starter cord was stuck and would not pull, but it pulls and retracts just fine. The drive shaft also turns easily.
If the engine is frozen up because of lack of oil, would the starter or drive shaft work ok? Is it possible for a frozen engine to "unfreeze" by itself?
One last question. If the engine is still frozen up, is there any way to "ungreeze" it?
Thanks.
ANSWER: Hello Jerry:
Those are Indeed the Model (170402), Type (0714-01) and Code (700625) Numbers for this Engine. It has a 1970 Production Year. From your Description I Suggest you Remove the Spark Plug, Fill the Cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil, Replace the Spark Plug and Let it Set Overnight. Then Remove the Spark Plug and Drain the Cylinder. Blow Out Any Excess Oil with Compressed Air. Install a New Plug. Remove the Air Filter and Pour a Small Amount (1 oz) of Gas Into the Carburetor Throat. Try to Start the Engine. What Happens? If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Most likely the Engine will Run and the Carburetor Requires Soaking and Cleaning. If the Engine was Hot when it Seized Up and was Never Checked when the Engine Cooled; it is Possible that Little to No Damage was Done to the Internal Engine Components. I have Seen Engines that were Locked Up when Hot; Turn Freely when Cold and Returning the Oil to it's Proper Level was All that was Required. At the Same Time, I have Also Seen Engine Locked Up when Hot that Stayed Locked Up even After Cooling Off. If you have a Compression Tester or Access to 1, then I Suggest you have the Compression Checked. If the Compression is Above 90PSI, then this Engine should Run Properly. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine at this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/doclist.aspx?categ and Enter the Model Numbers (170402) and the First 4 Type Numbers (0714) in the Appropriate Boxes and Click Go. Then Select Download PDF. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Back again. This engine has an electric starter. Plug a cord onto the starter and the other end of the cord into a socket. Flick a toggle switch on the starter and it turns over ok now.
Before attempting to start it, I wanted to drain the old oil and put in new, but I have been unable to remove the oil drain plug. I have put penetrating oil on it and let it set. No luck. There doesn't seem to be much rust on the plug. Any suggestions?
In the meantime I removed the oil refill plug and tipped the engine forward while holding a one quart jar under the refill hole. Somne very black oil came out, along with a few chucks of something. The jar got about 3/4 full before the oil stopped coming out. I set the jar down and noticed right away the contents were devided. A little over half was black oil on top, while the bottom half seems to be water. It's not gasoline because there's no smell.
This engine has been sitting outside, covered, for about 4 or 5 years. Could that water be from condensation over the years? Is there any way to be sure all the water and old oil is out of the engine if I can't get the drain plug out? Is there anything similar to dry gas that will help get all the water out?
ANSWER: Hello Again Jerry:
Have you Hit the Drain Plug Straight On with a Hammer? This will Usually Loosen the Rust and Dirt that May be in the Threads. An Electric or Air Impact Wrench is Ideal for Removing these Plugs. Heat May be Required to Help Loosen the Plu. Heat the Block Area Arounf the Plug (Not the Plug Itself. This Expands the Block Away from the Plug Enough for the Plug to be Loosened from the Block. If the Engine was Covered and had the Oil Fill Plug in, then Yes Condensation was the Cause for the Water in the Crankcase Oil. To Remove the Oil from the Crankcase, you have to Fill the Crankcase to the Correct Level with Engine Oil. Then Start the Engine and Allow to Run for Approximately 5 Minutes at 1/2 Throttle. Stop the Engine and Drain the Oil from the Crankcase and Refill with New Oil and your Finished. Once the Oil Drain Plug is Removed; Use Never Seize on the Threads and this will Prevent the Problem with the Oil Plug Freezing to the Engine Block. If I Remember Correctly, this Engine Holds 20 Ounce os Crankcase Oil. Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Is there any one penetrating oil that is better than the others?
By the way, there is an oil drain plug on each end of the motor. One in front and one in back. Each is the bottom part that mounts on the snowblower. Why are there 2 oil drain plugs.
U can't get either of them out. I called a place that sells and repairs just about anything with a snall engine to ask what they would charge and was told they probably couldn't do anything different than what I've been doing.
At a hardware store the ckerk pointed out a lube that had an odd name, aaying that was the best. It also cost the most. Im a gunsmithing book I have, it is suggested brake fluid makes a good penetrating lube. I tried it, but it didn't seem to help.
A couple weeks ago I drained and replaced the oil in the motor that is now on my snowblower. This past summer I did the same with my tiller. I had no problem removing the drain plug from either.
AnswerHi Jerry:
You are Beginning to See Why it Cost so Much to have Small Engines Repaired. Sometimes you come Across an Engine that is Just Plain Stubborn. It will give you a Fit when Trying to Remove a Simple Bolt or Plug as you have Found Out. Others Seem to Fall Apart and you have No Problems Making Repairs or Draining the Crankcase Oil. I am a Mechanical Engineer and have Wondered about this Characteristic of Engines and Lawn Equipment for Years. The Purpose for Having 2 Drain Plugs is because the Engine is a Special/Multi Purpose Engine and the Drain Plug that is Accessible is Depending on the Type of Unit the Engine is Powering. I Use PB Rust Catalyst and Sometimes Plain Water as a Penetrating Solution. It Sounds Weird, but Water is a Good Penetrate for Some Items. I have been Experimenting with a Penetrating Solution of Used Synthetic Engine Oil and Kerosene Mixed. I have Gotten Very Good Results so Far, but Keep the PB as a Reliable Standby. Have you Heated the Area Around the Drain Plug with a Small Torch? Usually this will Expand the Aluminum/Steel Away from the Plug Enough for the Penetrating Oil to Work Better and Loosen the Plug for Easier Removal. Are you Using Electric or An Air Impact to Remove the Plug. If No or you Do Not have Access to an Impact Tool, then Use a Pull Handle and Hit it to Jar the Plug. This Jarring Loosens the Rust in the Threads. This is the Reason for Using an Impact Tool. I have a 12V Impact Tool that was Purchased for Changing Tires on the Highway that is Kept as a Back in Case the Air Compressor or Air Impact Breaks. Be Sure to Coat the Threads of the Plug with Never Seize before Replacing it. This will Prevent this Problem the Next Time the Drain Plug has to be Removed. Also, the Other Engines you Changed the Oil in are Most likely Aluminum Block Engines and this Engine is Most Likely a Steel Block Engine. The Drain Plug is Going to be Harder to Remove from the Engine if this is the Case. There is a Penetrating Oil that Machine Shops Use that is Really Expensive, but I have Found the PB Rust Catalyst to be as Good as the Expensive Penetrating Oils. Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
