Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): tecuseh hm-100 no spark, safety switches, diagnostic instructions

Question
I have a powermate generator with a techumseh 10 hp purchased in 2000.It has less than an hour total run time on it.It also has a low oil shutdown switch. I cannot get it to start and as far as I can tell is no there spark. I tried disconnecting the low oil switch and bypassing the on-off switch. The flywheel has rust on it but I don't think that would matter.What is the best way to troubleshoot this motor or do you have any suggestion that I may try on my own?

Answer
Hello Steve:

You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the T. Then Select Tecumseh. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Enter the Model Numbers (HM100). Then Select your Model and Download the File for Online Viewing. **To Check the Ign Coil; Remove the Spark Plug/s. Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module. Now Check for Spark at the Plug. If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad. If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad Also.** **Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Engine to Locate the Cause/Cure for a Hard/Not Starting Engine. Check the Spark. Any Input t Help make this File Netter is Appreciated. If Not Firing, then Replace the Plug. If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat, then Check the Compression.  If the Compression is Good, the Carburetor has Been Soaked and Cleaned and the Plug is Firing, then Check the Flywheel Key. If the Key is Damaged, then the Plug Firing is Incorrect to the Position of the Piston During the Compression (Power Stroke).** If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John