QuestionHi John, Hope you can help me. I have rebuilt and restored an old utility vehicle, which had a bad Kohler engine. I put a new 20HP. Honda GX620 in it. When I am driving it, the governor is surging a lot. It seems to be in the lower RPM. Also sometimes as I start the engine at idle it will also surges. I can give it a little gas and then back off the throttle it will then idle. I have move the governor linkage spring to the control lever to different location. It seems that the spring is not tight; it has some play in it with no throttle applied. Do not know if this is right??. Can not seem to get the play out of the spring??. I have look at a B&S 16 HP and the old Kohler engine the spring seems to be tight. I have 35 years expense as an elevator mechanic and an expert Do It You Selfer. But do not know much about governor setting nor the theory of operation. I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me. THANK YOU
AnswerHello Jim:
From your Description it Sounds like the Carburetor Air Mixture Screws are Not Set Correctly, the Governor Needs to be Set or the Carburetor has Trash in it. The Following is an Explanation of How the Governor on Small Engine Operate. **The Governor System Behaves like an Unending Tug of War between One of Two Governor Springs, which Pull the Throttle Toward the Open Position, and a Spinning Crankshaft, which Tries to Close the Throttle. When the Load on the Engine Increases - a Typical Example is when you Move your Running Lawn Mower from the Driveway to the Grass - Crankshaft Revolutions Drop. But the Governor Spring is Still Tugging, Causing the Throttle Plate to Open. In Response, a Larger Volume of Air-Fuel Mixture Enters the Carburetor, Increasing Engine Speed to Compensate for the Increased Load. The Crankshaft Speeds Up, and the Tug of War Resumes, until a New Equilibrium is Achieved. With Each Change in Load, the Tension Between the Governor Spring and the Load Brings about a New Equilibrium, known as the Engine's Governed Speed. Neither Side Wins until the Engine is Shut Off. At that Point, without the Crankshaft Spinning, the Governor Spring Pulls the Throttle to the Wide-Open Position. Two Types of Governors are Common on Small Engines - Mechanical and Pneumatic.** There should be Slack in the Governor Spring when the Engine is at Idle. From your Description it Sounds like the Governor Requires Resetting or there is Varnish or Trash in the Carburetor that is Restricting the Gas Flow and Causing the Engine to Hunt for the Correct Set Speed. 1- If this Carburetor has Air Mixture Screws, then Turn the Idle Air Mixture Screw Out 1/4 Turn. This Should Correct the Hunting Problem when the Engine is at Idle. The Following is an Instruction File I made for Correcting this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is the Farthest from the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment. Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. If Not, then the Governor Arm May have been Hit During Shipping and has Slipped on the Governor Shaft. 2- Reset the Governor. The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Making this Adjustment. Any Input is Appreciated. If you Removed/Loosened the Governor Arm to Remove the Carburetor, then Reset the Governor. **To Reset the Governor; Loosen the Governor Arm Bolt and Turn the Governor Shaft Clockwise Until it Stops. Using the Governor Arm Hold the Carburetor to Full Throttle. Now with the Shaft Full Clockwise and the Governor Arm and Carburetor Held at Full Throttle, Tighten the Governor Arm Bolt. If the Engine Still Runs Full Throttle, then Reverse the Rotation of the Governor Shaft, but Still Hold the Carburetor at Full Throttle with the Governor Arm. If it Still Runs at Full Throttle, then Check the Internal Governor.** 3- If the Engine Still Hunts for the Set Speed, then the Carburetor needs to be Cleaned. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port. If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. Install New Parts if Required.** I Have Covered the Most Common Corrections for your Problem. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower/Engine at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainfram... and Select the Catalog American Honda. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
