Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Starter/Solenoid/Key Problem, starter solenoid, fly wheel

Question
QUESTION: I just got a new starter in the mail for my 286707 Briggs engine. My solenoid is in between the starter and the battery not connected to the starter. the orange wire going into the solenoid doesn't seem to work, so I've been using a strand of copper wire to connect the two red cables from the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. It makes the starter turn, but the starter doesn't catch the engine fly wheel. it just rotates fast. What is the problem? It wont move the notches on the starter to the notches on the flywheel, unless I touch the notches on the starter while it is moving. Does the solenoid transfer more power to the starter than a piece of copper wire could, and that is why the starter isn't moving fast enough? Please help

ANSWER: Hello Michael:

The Starter Drive May Require Lubrication. Even New the Starter Drive May be Dry and Not Sliding Smoothly. For the Solenoid Problem, **(with the Spark Plug/s Removed) To Check the Solenoid and Starter, Once you are Sure the Battery is Fully Charged/New, then Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery (make sure the Battery is Fully Charged or is a New Battery). Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter. If the Starter Does Not Turn and you can turn the Engine by Hand, then the Starter is Bad. If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Using the Positive Cable Lead Hooked to the Battery and Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid that has the Ign Wire Attached to it. If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad.** Depending on the Model Mower, the Safety System May be Causing the Solenoid Not to Function. Here is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. **PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades.** Send me the Model Numbers Off the Mower, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Dear John, thank you for your reply to my earlier question.
my starter seems to work fine, and my battery is new. But it seems as if the starter is just not powerful enough to crank the flywheel on the engine. I can turn the engine by hand, by twisting the top of it, but it isn't very easy. The starter work on its own, and spins very fast, but if it is connected to the fly wheel it wont turn it. It sounds like its trying but nothing happens. Could there be a safety engaged blocking the flywheel from freely moving, or is something else wrong?

Answer
Hello Michael:

Sorry for the Misunderstanding. It Happens from Time to Time. If the Starter Turns the Engine 3/4 of a Revolution and then Stalls/Drags 1/4 Turn and then Repeats the Process, then Check the Flywheel Key. A Damaged Flywheel Key will Cause the Plug to Fire Early and Stalls the Engine During the Starting Process. If the Starter is having Trouble Turning the Engine for the Complete Starting Cycle then, Is the Crankcase Oil at the Proper Level? If Yes, then Remove the Carburetor and Muffler. Remove the Crankcase Breather/Valve Stem Cover. Set the Engine on TDC of the Compression Stroke and Check the Valve Clearance. Also, Turn the Engine and Watch the Valves Move. Are they Moving at Least (what looks like) 1/4"? If No, then the cam is Worn and Requires Replacing. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the B. Then Select Briggs and Stratton. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Select the File # 28. Then Select the Folder # 286707. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John