QuestionQUESTION: Model 31H707 tytpe 0212 E1 Code 274826 17.5 HP engine. Has been sitting for two years. Excellent condition. Need choke to keep running. New battery but drains battery to dead. Was starting with jump. Was running fine in 2nd gear at 2nd to highest cut. Just made a pop sound and stopped. Will not turn over. just make an attempt and then a clicking sound. What shall I do to get it running again and fix the issues? 46 inch deck on this one.
ANSWER: Hello Brent:
1- The Pop May have been the Valves. Remove the Valve Cover and Check the Push Tubes and Rocker Arms. Make Sure the Valve Components are All Correctly Installed and the Valve Clearance is Correct. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Unit at this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/doclist.aspx?categ and Enter the Model Numbers (XXXXXX) and Type Numbers (XXXX) in the Appropriate Boxes and Click GO. Then Select Download PDF. 2- The Stator May Not be Charging the Battery. If you Jumped the Mower and the Vehicle you Jumped from was Running, then the Stator or Voltage Regulator (if this Engine has one) are Damaged and Require Replacing before the Battery will Stay Charged. 3- The Choke Problem is Due to the Passages Inside the Carburetor being Restricted by Varnish. To Correct this Problem; **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Heard that the reason the battery would not stay charged could be due to ignition switch being bad or an electronic solenoid that may be electrically bad and discharging electricity all the time. Any suggestions on a debug procedure? When I just use the car battery without the car running it was not enough to start the lawnmower.
AnswerHello Again Brent:
OK; the Extra battery Not being Enough the Properly Turn the Engine Helps. 1- Reset the Valves. **I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center (Both Rocker Arms will have Play in them when the Engine is at TDC) on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks and Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .007in - .009in. I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.** This will Correct the Starting Problem. An Extra Battery Attached, Using Battery Cables is More than Enough to Start this Engine if the Valves are Correctly Set. The Valve Adjustment is a Common Problem with the OHV Engines. 2- This Engine can have a Voltage Regulator or Not. It Depends on the Stator (Charger Under the Flywheel). Go to the Site Addy I Provided in the Earlier E-Mail and Locate the Engine Breakdown as I Instructed. Look on the Page with the Stators/Alternators and you can See the Voltage Regulator and Get a General Idea of what you are Looking for. If there is No Voltage Regulator, then the Stator/Alternator MUST be Replaced. Doing this will Correct the Charging Problem. Depending on the Model of the UNIT this Engine is Mounted on and How the Electrical System is Wired, will Determine if the Switch will Effect the Charging. Usually the Stator or Regulator is the Problem. Send me the Model Numbers Off the Mower, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
