Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Maruyama BL6700 backback blower - erratic power / surging under full load, kawasaki 60cc, mufler


Question
Happy New Year.  I have a Maruyama BL6700 backback blower which has a Kawasaki 60cc Engine (TD 59D). When operating at full load (max throttle)I experience erratic / consistent power.  It will keeps running, but bogs in and out only under full power.  I have been running it with an ashless oil:gas ratio of about 35:1 vs the recommended 50:1 due to the various power tools I have.

I have been reading this thread for others with a similar situation and have done the following so far:

1.) Fresh Gas (several trines)

2.) Clean fuel filter in the tank. (several times)

3.) Ensure lines are clean.

4.) Cleaned the air filter (several times)

5.) removed the carb an partially disassembled and cleaned.    

6.) Cleaned any buildup on the carb intake port

7.) Removed plug cleaned /regapped, but will now replace it

8.) Removed muffler.   It did not look bad but I sprayed it with cleaner.

8.) removed any carbon build up from the exhaust port.

9.) The top of the piston has some carbon build up.  I sprayed/soaked the top of it thru the spark plug hole with the jug still on the try and remove some of it
using a plastic scraper thru the exhaust port. I have not been able to remove much of it, but am now considering removing the jug off the engine to access the top of the piston better.  If I remove the jug, what torque should I use on the 4 bolts when I put the jug back on? Should I even remove the jug? I may need to do this as 1 of the 2 bolts holding the mufler broke flush with the jug/ehasut port, and my easy out broke off trying to remove it, so now I need to probably drill and retap.

Do you have any other suggestions on what I can do while the blower is apart?

After doing these things and it still has erratic top end power, any other ideas?

Any help/advise is greatly appreciated.

Charles  

Answer
Hello Charles:

You can View a Breakdown of this Unit at this Site Addy; http://www.maruyama-us.com/support/default.aspx?id=2934&linkidentifier=id&itemid... and Select Current or Non Current Models. Yours is a Non Current Model. Then Select your Model for Online Viewing. 1- All two stroke engines will use a 50 to 1 ratio using today's two stroke oils.  I once used an old chainsaw probably from the 1960s, that had a sticker on it that said to use a 25 to 1 fuel/oil ratio, but that would have been using two stroke oils of the time period the chainsaw was manufactured.  In that chainsaw I used 50 to 1 ratio with no problems.  Today's two stroke oils compared to yesteryears are more efficient at lubricating.  It is like comparing today's synthetic motor oil to motor oils of decades ago.  All the equipment I use in landscaping, anything from a weed eater, leaf blower, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, use 40 to 1 ratio, and I use all types of makes and models, Stihl, Homelite, Husqvarna, Shindaiwa, and Echo, Sears.  I mix up a 5 gallon fuel can and use it in all of the equipment for my customers and for my landscaping. I Mix the 40 to 1 Instead of 50 to 1 Due to the Extreme Punishment my Equipment is Put through Day After Day. 2- Adjust the Air Mixture Screws (if Any) ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** 3- Your Problem Sounds like the Carburetor Passages are Restricted with Varnish. Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. 4- I Suggest you Drill and Tap, but Not Remove the Jug (Cylinder) from the Piston. A Small Amount of Carbon on the Piston is Common. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John