QuestionHi,
I just bought a Bolens HT23 with a K582 Kohler (23hp) engine. The tractor is very hard to start and I suspect weak spark. I have one of those cheap inline bulb type of spark testers and the bulb seems dim when I am turning it over. I have replaced the point, condenser, and plugs. I also rebuilt and adjusted the carb as best as I could. The coil is the next thing I want to try but they are very expensive! I hate to buy one and find out that it was something else. The coil part number is 277375S (Kohler). The engine runs fine when I get it started. I have made sure that points and plugs are properly adjusted. The points are clean too. I found on the internet that you can test a coil with an Ohm meter. I did it on mine but my results are a little puzzling. Here is a link to a picture of the test. I don't think the carb is my issue because starting fluid doesn't help it start.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2844838330049994683MMAsqC
What puzzles me is that I cant get a reading from the small terminals to the large ones. I have 3 questions.
1. Can you tell me if this coil is bad?
2. Can I use another (cheaper) 2 cyl coil as long as I worked up a way to mount it?
3 Is there a way to change this engine over to a completely electronic ignition. (i.e no points etc.
Thanks for your help.
Greg
pastor@southwestbaptist.org
AnswerHello Greg:
This Model Engine has No Way to Go to a Completely Solid State (Electronic) Ign System. An OHM Meter Will Not Give a True Account of the Coils Condition. A Coil Tester is Required. However, If the Plug is Firing, then Use 2 Batteries, Set the Engine up so that One Battery is Supplying Current to the Coil Only and the One in the Unit will Turn the Starter Only. With the Batteries Set Up this Way; If the Engine Starts Up with No Problem, then the Battery in the Unit is to Small (CCA is Not High enough) or the Starter is Pulling To Much Current and Robbing the Coil of the Required Voltage to Fire the Plug/Plugs Properly. If the Coil Still has Weak Fire to the Plug/Plugs when this Test is Performed, then the Coil should be Tested as the Coil is Supplied Power from a Seperate Power Sourse and has Plenty of Voltage to Properly Operate Properly. Disconnect the Oil Pressure Cut Out Switch and the High Temperature Cut Out Switch. Either of these Switches can Cause the Problem you Described Also. ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** I Never Suggest Using Other than Original or Aftermarket Parts that are Designed for the Equipment that the Part is Being Replaced on. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
