QuestionQUESTION: Hi John,
I am replacing the engine on a John Deere RX75 (9HP Kaw FC290V-AS02) with a 12.5HP Kaw from a later model GX95 (FB460V-AS34), and have question on the wiring.
The original engine has an external retifier(black) and an external igniter (silver), but the newer engine only has the external igniter.
I'm not exactly sure how to wire it up. On the new engine there is a white wire connection to the igniter, and a black wire connection coming from under the cowl.
The original wiring has a red wire from the key to the rectifier, and a white to the igniter from the key switch.
How should I wire this new engine up??
Thanks!
ANSWER: Hello Terry:
The Red Wire Attaches to the Black Wire Connection that is Coming from Under the Blower Housing. This Black Lead is the Alternator/Stator. This Alternator/Stator has a Built in Regulator/Rectifier. The White Key Switch Wire Goes to the Igniter as on the Other Engine. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.H and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Find. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi John,
Appreciate the response on the wiring, was right on...
Fast forward to today... I finally the FB460V mounted and fired it up. Started right away, but I immediately noticed that it was surging a little at full throttle (could watch the linkage on the carburator hunt back and forth). However, when i triedto run it at part throttle the surging got much worse and would barely run (almost stall, then cough back up). When I left it at part throttle for a couple of minutes it started to leak gas out of the overflow?? tube from the top of the bowl. Let it set for a few minutes and started it back up at full throttle and no more leaking...
It also surges much worse at full throttle when I put the air cleaner on, ..so something seems afoul with air fuel/ air mix??
I bought the engine used, so not sure how long it sat before I fired it up. Wanted to get your opinion on things to try before I resort to pulling the carb apart and cleaning.
Thanks again for your help!!
ANSWER: Hello Again Terry:
Thanks for the Good Words. Not Knowing how Long the Engine was Unused Before you Started it and with the Engine Surging, I Suggest you Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. You can Also View a Breakdown of the Engine at this Site Addy; http://www.buykawpower.com/kmcb2c/main.jsp and Select View Parts Catalog. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi John,
Thanks to all your help, I've got the ole' JD running strong. Really appreciate the help.
Today I moved onto replacing the pulleys and spindle bearings on the 30" deck. I got everything pulled apart fairly smoothly (with the exception of the shaft key, which was STUCK), but I wanted to make sure I reassemble the hub correctly.
When I pressed the lower bearing our of the hub and removed the spacer, I noticed that cavity of the hub around the outside of the spacer was packed with grease. I honestly can't fgure out what that grease would do since the two bearings are sealed.
Do I need to repack the cavity with grease before reinstalling the spacer and new bearings???
Thanks again!
AnswerHi Terry:
Some Mechanics Put the Grease into the cavity in Case the Spindle Shaft Loosens and Spins the Internal Spacer. Without Any Grease in the Cavity, the Spindle Shaft and Spacer are Usually Damaged and Require Replacing. With the Grease the Spindle Shaft and Spacer have a Better Chance of being Reused. If the Spindle Housing will Allow for Drilling and Tapping, then I Suggest you Drill and Install Grease Fittings. Remove the Inner Seals from the Bearing and Grease the Spindles Before Each Use. This is How All My Equipment is Prepped for Long Term Yard Maintenance. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
