QuestionQUESTION: TRACTOR #917-256531 MOTOR 15.5 OHV 28N707 My Dad parked this tractor a couple of years ago due to cyl head filling with gas. I have taken carb off and cleaned and the mower will run if I prime the carb with starting fluid or dump gas directy in it but will not keep running. Thinking that the solinoid on the bottom of the bowl is bad? Also the only way I get this to crank is by jumping the contacts on the starter solinoid. Nothing happens when I turn the key. I have checked the safety switches disconnected and reconnected them all. Fuse is good. What next?
ANSWER: Hello Jim:
When you Cleaned the Carburetor, did you Remove, Disassemble and Soak Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidential Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the B. Then Select Briggs and Stratton. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Select the File # 28. Then Select the Folder # 28N700. 1- Use your Jumper Cable Set and Attach the Positive Lead Onto the Positive Post of the Battery. Now Firmly Touch the Large Post on the Starter. If the Starter Turns the Engine Properly, Then Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Solenoid. If The Starter Does Not Turn and the Solenoid Clicks, Then the Solenoid is Bad. 2- PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY. I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals. Check the Clutch/Break and the Blade/PTO Safety Switchs First. Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. 3- Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 3/4" Long. Put theis Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid. ***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES*** Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: OK its alive! there was some corrosion in the safety switch on the mower engagement lever. She starts and runs with the key. The carb was really clogged. Your great advice helped! Now for the next problem. The mower deck will not come on. I did check the blades and they spin. not sure if there is something I need to be oiling, greasing or trying to pry on to get it moving. I am kinda leaning towards removing the deck and cleaning it up. What do you think?
Thanks
Jim
ANSWER: Hello Jim:
Great!!! I am Glad I Could Assist you in Getting it Running. Now, You are Correct. The Next Process is to Remove the Deck and While Doing so Check the Linkage, Springs and Idlers Under the Mower Frame. A Tension Spring for the Blade Belt Tension May have Broken or the Engagement Idler Arm MAy be Frozen. Clean and Lubricate ALL Connection Points and Ensure they Move Freely. Go to this Site Addy, http://www3.sears.com/ and Enter the Model Numbers in the Upper Left Search Box and Click Go. Then Visually Verify the Equipment and CLick Continue. From this Page you can View Diagrams or Parts Lists for you Equipment. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
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QUESTION: Just a quick note... After removing the mower deck I dicsovered a frozen engagement pully. after a little prying with a screw driver and a lot of wd-40 it moved nice and easy. I put it back togeather and I have power to the mower deck. I hope I wont be asking you any more questions in the near future but, thank you! I am glad I found this site.
AnswerHi Jim:
Great!!! I am Glad you are Mowing the Grass Again. Keep an Eye on the Frozen Pulley Though. It May freeze Up Again from the Pitts the Rust Caused in the Bearings and the Grease (if any) Left in the Bearings is Contaminated with Rust Particales that will Wear on the Bearings. This Increases the Heat and Wears the Bearings Faster. I Would Really Suggest you Purchase a Replacement and Install It. If it Lockes Up you will be Replacing the Belt As Well. Come Back to Say Hello and Update Me. You Don't have to have a Problem, Just Say Hello. I Enjoy Talking to Everyone that Writes in. Till Next Time. May All Your Mechanical Problems be SMALL ONES and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks Again.
Best Wishes and Good Luck
Respectfully
John
