Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): John Deere 345 quit running, john deere dealer, john deere 345

Question
QUESTION: Paul,

I have a 1996 John Deere 345, that quit running after it had been running for about 5 minutes. The engine (a 18 HP V-Twin Liquid Cooled OHV FD590Y with 950 hours) will turn over, and is getting gas and spark. I took off the valve cover off both cylinders, and had my wife try to start the engine. It looked to me that only one valve was moving on each cylinder as the engine turned over. Should I be able to see both valves moving? I'm not quit sure where to go from here. Due to the cost of going to a John Deere dealer, I would like to try repair this myself.

Thank you for your help.

Rick

ANSWER: Your camshaft is fried.  The stock cam in this engine had plastic gears. The replacement will be steel. This is common enough that we stock 3 cams in our parts department.

It is about a 5 hour job at the dealer. I finished this very job yesterday. Cost of parts and labor was 800.00.

It's not that hard mechanicaly, it just takes a lot of time.

If you can do a timing chain on a small block chevy you can do this. It really is just a simple R&R job.

If you can't handle the cam replacement pull the engine and take it to a dealer. Pulling the engine yourself will save you about 250.00

The most important thing to remember is you MUST fix this tractor.  Have you seen what 800.00 will buy on todays tractor market.

FYI... replace the water pump while you are there or you will be back in about 25 hours.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Paul,

I am attempting to do this job myself. I have a new water pump and camshaft. I was trying to pull the engine and could not get the mower drive clutch assembly (PTO?) off to remove the engine. I took out the center bolt out but the PTO and pulley does not come off.  Is there a trick to getting it off?

Thanks again,

Rick

Answer
Admit it Rick, you're a tractor washer aren't you.  People don't relize when they wash there tractor the problems they can cause.  Usually from my experience, if the clutch doesn't fall of, it's owned by a "Washer".

Don't fret,put the bolt back in, leave about 1/2" between the washer and the bottom of the clutch.  Now whith one hand pull down on the clutch HARD.  With the other hand hit the bolt with a big ole hammer, HARD.  Be patient and try to pull straight down on the clutch.

If this doesn't work you will have to get a fairly large puller.  The jaws must be attached to the third layer from the bottom.  This will be a very thin edge of the cast iron rotor.  This is the only place you can use a puller without damaging the clutch.  Sometimes they never come off.  When that happens you have to do whatever it takes to get to the cam, hacksaw, grinder, cutting torch, etc.

FYI... always leave the bolt in the crankshaft when removing the clutch.  When the clutch does come off, and it will, it will smash your hand against the ground like a sledge hammer.  That,s a lesson I learned the hard way.