QuestionJohn,
Thank you for your quick reply. In order…no fire at the spark plug, the 3 safety switches are good, engine is model: 28R707 type: 1120-E1 code: 030906ZE, after hitting the pvc sewer cap the mower continued to run fine approx. 20 mins till put away, I’m concerned I damaged the flywheel key as well. The mower is Craftsman model: 536.270282 Serial: 7520102342P091 Mfg date: 2004.01.23.
I bought it 2 falls ago from Sears Hardware. It had supposedly been returned b/c an electrical part needed to be ordered for the repair and was expected to take several weeks to receive. Sears gave the purchaser a new one rather than make him wait. I’ve had no problems until now.
A few questions still.
I’ve take parts off till I get to the main 15/16” nut. How am I supposed to keep the flywheel from turning to remove this nut?
Do you think the gas in the oil is from all the cranking? Now that I’ve thought about it I’ve actually had to recharge the battery twice now while working on it.
I’m still fuzzy on the magneto/coil thing. I can see the magneto and the wire that runs to it. Does it amp up the charge from the coil and deliver it to the plug? The clearance to the flywheel is extremely tight…I can’t even tell for sure if it’s not touching. The flywheel seems to turn fine though. Flywheel has a bit of rust.
The wire that runs up and disappears under the flywheel I assume goes to the coil? What does the coil do?...doesn’t it also amp up the charge? Does it amp it up and the magneto just control the timing? Is the magneto and the coil the same thing?...maybe there is nothing under the flywheel...but I see wires going there! Sorry for all the questions!
I will definitely let you know how it is resolved and appreciate any further info.
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Followup To
Question -
I hit a plastic sewer cap on my Craftsman riding mower (BS 28R707, I/C 13.5hp) and it continued running fine. 1 week later on the very 1st crank it starts to fire but doesn't; every crank since no spark, nothing. I have heard this could be a Magnito (sp?) problem due to the strike.
I went to take the flywheel cover off to look around and that removes the plastic oil fill tube. So I drained some oil out...seemed thin and it smells of gas. Is there a bigger problem here or could it be from cranking so much I've thinned the oil from unburned gas in the combustion chamber (I've recharged the battery once b/c of test cranking so much). When I remove the spark plug I can smell gas as well after cranking.
Additional info, my Heat/AC guy neighbor says there is an open circuit on the Magnito lead and gives me a fusable link to replace it with. We uncover it an it doesn't look like a fuse (After reading tonight I think it is a 'ballast resister' to drop the voltage). Anyway we replace with the fuse link...only 3.5 amps...it blows right away. He thinks the strike may have messed up a ground.
What do you think?!
Answer -
Hello Dan:
Is there Fire at the Spark Plug when you are trying to Start the Engine? Have you Checked All the Safety Switches? The Seat, Neutral and Blade Safety Switches will Prevent the Coil from Firing. I Require the Type and Code Numbers Off of the Engine to go with the Model Number to View a Breakdown of the Engine and Better Assist you. When you hit the Sewer Cap, Did the Engine Stall or Continue to Run? You May have Damaged the Flywheel Key. The Flywheel Key Times the Firing of the Plug to the Position of the Piston. Send me the Model Number of the Mower too, Please. This will Allow me to View the Mower Itself and Look at the Wiring Harness. Hope this Helps. Let me know what Happens, Please. I Enjoy knowing the Outcome. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
Answer Hello Dan:
Go to this Addy http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BShopProductListingPage.asp?rsvp=0&PARENTID=0& and Enter the Model Number 28R707 and the Type Number 1120. On the Next Page Scroll Down to the 2nd Listing and Click on View PDF. This will Download a Breakdown of the Engine. The Wire that Leads Under the Flywheel is for the Charging System(Stator). There is a Voltage Regulator. The Coil has No Hot Wire. It has Ground Wires Only. One Grounds the Coil for it to Work and the Wire that Leads from it goes to the Ignition Switch for Grounding the Coil when the Switch is Turned Off or a Mechanical Ground. If the Flywheel Key was Sheared, the Plug will Still Fire. It Just Fires at the Wrong Time in Relation to the Position of the Piston. Unplug the Coil Grounding Wire that Goes to the Switch and see if you have Fire. If No Fire then, the Coil is Bad. If you have Fire, then Check for a Bad Wire. The Coil/Magneto Wire is a Ground Wire. The Magnets on the Flywheel Charge the Coil and Make it Fire when they Go by the Coil. The Coil to Flywheel Gap should be .020in. The Gas Smelling Oil is Caused when the Carburator Float Needle isnt Stopping the Flow of Gas to the Carburator when the Mower is Not in Use. Install a Cutoff Valve in the Gas Line and Turn Off the Gas Flow After Each Use. This is a Common Problem with the Riding Mowers Built Today. Rebuilding the Carburator will Help, but Only for 2 or 3 Months and then it will Happen all Over Again. The Flywheel is Held with a Special Tool or with a Strap Wrench. You May need Compressed Air Tools to Remove and Replace the Nut. You will Need a Steering Wheel Puller to Remove the Flywheel after the Nut is Off. Attach the Puller to the Flywheel and Apply Tension. Then Hit the Puller with a Hammer to Jar the Flywheel. Repeat the Process Until the Flywheel Pops up and can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. The Flywheel and Crankshaft are a Tappered Fit. Hope this Helps. Let me know what Happens, Please. I enjoy knowing the Outcome. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
