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I have an older Troy Built Tiller which is the "Horse" model. It has a Tecumseh engine without markings for the Horsepower. My question is pertaining to a leak that is coming from a small hole on the left side of the throttle body directly across from the fuel line. I disassembled the carburetor today and cleaned it thoroughly. I adjusted the screws for the needles so that they were about where I found them which was fairly snug. This leak started when I reconnected the fuel line and began to pour out the small hole I mentioned. This hole is definitely fabricated in the throttle body and is not due to puncture or rust. Do you have any idea what is causing this leak and how should I fix it? It would also be helpful to have a link to a diagram of the Tecumseh Carburetor that is on the tiller. The number on the carburetor is 96 7C21. The numbers I have found on the tiller are HH60-105706F. Thank You for your time. Matt
Answer -
Matt, you're carb is flooding because the float;s needle valve isn't seating. There's a large bowl underneath where the fuel line connects, inside theres a float on a pivot, attached to a flap in the middle of the float and next to the hinge is a little clip holding a needle valve. You probably need to replace the needle valve and its seat. Both come in a rebuild kit, you'll need a piece of music wire you can bend a little hook into the pop out the old seat. Use the end of a Q-tip with the cotton removed to push the new one back into place (don't want to nick it). Send me a reply - I'll look for a diagram of the carb and scan it to send to you. :)
Allen,
Thanks allot for the answer it was very helpful. I replaced the seat (rubber washer) that went to the needle valve. However, now I have noticed that I am getting a fuel leak from the idle fuel adjustment needle. There maybe another washer that goes with that needle seat that I have overlooked in the rebuild kit. What do you think? Also, I replaced the spark plug and checked it by pulling it and reattaching the spark plug wire and grounding it on a metal bolt and pulling the recoil starter. I am not getting any spark and the manual suggested that the condenser and the points were probably bad or out of adjustment. How do I access and adjust the points and the condenser? By the way I have also checked the spark plug wire for a short and so far it looks pretty good down to where it comes out of the engine cover. Do you think I am on the right track or should I be looking at something else? Additionally, the correct Tecumseh engine model number is HH60-105106F and it on a 1979 Troy Built "Horse".
Thank You for your time.
Matt
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Right track Matt! You have a 6 hp Tecumseh, very good engine for tillers. Now- the idle mixture needle uses an O-ring for sealing, find it/replace it. Get yourself a new set of points/condensor (they're cheap), a 2-jaw puller (rent free from Auto-zone just a deposit) remove the cowl, retaining nut from crank, pop off the flywheel, pull the dust cover & replace those points. You'll find gap info on the dust cover. Good luck- lemme know how it goes!
Allen,
Thanks for the advice about the condenser and the points; however I have a rookie question. How do you remove the points and the condenser with the Two Jaw puller you mentioned? I ordered the parts yesterday and I wanted to try the install on Friday, if they are in. Any advice you have so I don't damage the wiring on the condenser or the housing on the points would be appreciated. Thanks for keeping me straight.
Matt-------------------------
AnswerMatt,
My apologies- I was too brief. First remove the cowling, then the big nut in the center of the flywheel(set the spring washer under the nut aside!). You then use the two-jaw puller to remove the flywheel by hooking the jaws to the rear of the flywheel at two points that are equal distance from the front (it may halp to first run the center bolt way out on the puller so it dosen't interfere with putting the jaws on the flywheel). You then turn the center bolt in, position its point on the end of the crankshaft, use an 8" cresent wrench (adjustable) when its tight. The flywheel will pop off(find the key and set it aside!). Under it you'll find a small round cap looking thing held on by two small bolts, remove those, the cap then pops off, underneath you will see the condenser (round part) and the points (arm with spring and a contact pad at the end). Note carefully how the points mount with the spring. Its a bit of a chore to replace, needle nose pliers help. The condensor is held with a small bolt. Install the new condensor but leave the bolt a bit loose. Now reference the dust cover you took off- it should have the gap information, should be (.020). now- rotate the crankshaft, watch the point arm go up and down. Turn the crank til the arm is up and dosen't move, now put the feeler gage between the condenser contact and the point arm contact, gently tap the end of the condensor until it moves up enough that you can just feel sliding contact on the feeler gage, but can still easily insert and remove it. Lock down the condenser, reinstall the dust cover, install the flywheel, line up the keyways and install the key, now the spring washer (very important) and the nut. Hard part here is holding the flywheel and tightening the nut-you can jam a large screwdriver into the cooling fins - pick the thick fins- but best thing is a LARGE(8-10") C-clamp. Tighten the nut to 70ft lbs (all you can go with one arm is good). Replace the cowling and give her a try!
