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I recently purchased a used Honda GX120 with 6:1 reduction on ebay. When it arrived, I pulled the cord to start it. The gas tank was empty on arrival and I filled it about 1/3 full. On the third pull, the pull cord would not come out of the assembly, something has locked up. Do you have any suggestions?
Answer -
If you remove the spark plug can you pull the string?
Let me know.
Eric
Reply:
Thank you for your reply. I did remove the spark plug, and the pull cord still will not pull out.
Answer -
Is there oil in the engine?
Normally when we have this problem we start by remving the starter and fan shround exposing most of the external parts. You can visiually check for parts that may be binding. If you remove all the external parts down to the flywheel then you may want to check the reduction assembly.
Let me know what you find.
Eric
Thanks again. Yes, oil is in the engine. I have taken the engine to a local repair shop. Hopefully it is something simple jammed in the starter. If not I will probably take it to Honda dealer for a more complete evaluation.
Answer -
Hopefully it will be that easy. Let me know what they find...always interested in Honda repairs since they rarely fail.
Eric
January 13: When the local repair shop removed the starter housing, they found a nail lodged between the ignition pack and the flywheel. It was removed and now the cord pulls easily.
However, when they tried to start it, it would only run if they poured gasoline into the engine. And when it did run there was fair amount of smoke. They thought that during shipment the engine was not upright, and some oil got into the engine. They are a Kohler dealer, and so were reluctant to start any other work, though they thought the carburator needed to be worked on. Is this something I can address myself, or do I need to take it to a Honda dealer?
Lawrence
Answer -
The oil guess it probably correct. As for the Honda carbs they are just like any other carb.
Do you have any mechanical experience?
Would you feel comfortable removing and dis-assembling the carburetor?
Let me know.
Eric
After I wrote to you I wrote to the person who sold me the engine. He told me prior to shipping he had poured oil into the cylinder. I removed the cup under the carburetor, it was full of oil. I cleaned it out and then let gas drain through for a while. After I reassembled it, and with three pulls, it started. When running, the engines never seems to get to any power, and surges, throttling up and down by itself. What are your thoughts? Yes, I would feel comfortable taking apart the carburetor.
Lawrence
Answer -
Most likely there is some oil that got sucked up into some carb orfices. If you remove, dis-assemble and clean the carb with some carb cleaner and compressed air it should fix your problem.
The carb is fairly simple, basically the bowl, float and inlet needle seat.
If the inlet needle is all metal be careful when blowing out the inlet needle seat area so as not to blow the seat out.
Let me know what happens.
Eric
Can you recommend a particular type or brand of carb cleaner? I have Techron that I use for my car, will that work? Also, can you direct me to an diagram of a carb so I have some idea of what I will be seeing.
Lawrence
Answer -
Techron carb cleaner will be fine. As for carb diagrams, I don't know if any Honda ones online.
Tecumseh carbs, and most all float style carbs are pretty much the same.
Here is a link that has the basic Honda diagram:
http://www.lawn-mower-shop.com/carb3.htm
Let me know if it helps.
Eric
Eric,
I finally got up the nerve to take apart the carburetor. After taking it apart and cleaning it several times, each time getting to another part that I had missed, I reinstalled it. It started and worked well until the engine had warmed up, and then the same problem, the surging up and down returned, but not as pronounced as before I had cleaned the carb. Actually much less. I talked to someone about this and he said it could be something with the valve adjustment. I went to the following site http://www.westmorelandequipment.com/engine-repair.aspx and using their directions and clearances adjusted the valves. It runs even better now, but there still is a perceptible surge up and down once the engine has warmed up. I used 0.006 for the intake and 0.008 for the exhaust. If I go back to the valves again, how could I adjust either, just by looking at how much I turn either rock arm pivot, to elminate this last bit of surging?
Thanks,
Lawrence
Answer -
Glad to hear you got it running. What equipment does it run?
Have you checked the engine RPM. If the speed it off it can cause the surging.
Let me know.
Eric
Eric,
I am going to put it on a Locke 25 inch reel lawnmower, built in 1952. I have been using this mower for the past 13 years. It has a chain drive. It now has a Briggs 3.5 hp on its last legs. How do you check and adjust the rpm? And is that adjustment good for any throttle setting?
Lawrence
AnswerSeveral companies sell single cylinder tachometers. The tach is useful for setting the top engine speed and idle. Sometimes you will get an engine that surges at idle and full throttle if the RPM is too high or too low.
Does the engine start easy?
Does it surge at all speeds?
Let me know.
Eric
