Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Mower is dead, dynamark mower, limit switches

Question
I have a Craftsman riding mower (model # 536.270111) with a 10hp Tecumseh Engine.  I was cutting the grass last week and I was 3/4 of the way done when the enigne started sputtering, so I pulled it into the garage.  I thought the fuel filter or line was clogged, I drained the full, cleaned the line put a new filter on and refueled the mower and it still sputtered.  So It was getting late so I put it away.  2 days later I try to start it and It wouldn't turn over it just kept cranking.  I tried that for a couple mins.  I went to get my manual and I went to go try it again and now nothing works.   there is no cranking of the engine, no sound at all.  ( it has a new spark plug).  I checked the battery even though it is brand new and its fine, I checked all my safety connectings and limit switches and no luck. (unless one of the limit switches burn't out) Solenoid is brand new, I replaced the fuse. I started swapping parts off of  my old dynamark mower ( 1977  model 1036 ) which has the same engine.  I swapped the Electric Starter, no luck, and I swapped the ignition switch and no luck.  I do regular maint. on my mowers, I changed the oil twice a year, change the air filter once a year, new spark plug every 2 years.  I'm stumped what should I try next?

Answer
Hi Patrick,

It seems like you have read my "No crank" proceedure but if not, I have included it.  If all is correct, the engine should crank over.  After you get it to crank over, check for a lack of fuel flow by squirting fuel or starting fluid into the carb's intake to see if you can keep it running.

Let me know how you make out.
Michael

I would check the starter first.  Jump the positive battery terminal to the starter and it should crank over.  If not, the starter is bad.  If good, then you will need to trace the entire circuit from the starter to the battery.  The solenoid, switches the battery power to the starter, when power from the key switch is sent to the small terminal on the solenoid. To test the solenoid, first make sure that you have power at its large terminal which comes from the battery. Then jump power from that terminal or the battery positive post, to its small terminal. You should hear a click and the other large terminal that feeds the starter should be energized. If not, then the solenoid is bad. If good, then continue tracing the power through the key switch to the battery until you find the break in the power path.   All testing can be done with a 12 volt light or a voltmeter.  Most equipment has safety switches in  the seat and on the blade engagement lever. Check them by temporarily bypassing with a small jumper wire.