Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Home generators, home generators, michael ps

Question
Michael,

Thanks very much. Your answer was very helpful. Is it difficult to remove and reinstall a carburetor for a small engine like this? How would I go about that?

Mike


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Followup To
Question -
I have an Arctic cat 7500W generator which I have not started in quite awhile(1 year or so). There has been gasoline left in it. It has both electric and pull start. It cranks but will not start. Any advice for unclogging whatever is causing the problem?

Thanks!
Answer -
Hi Mike,

You will need to determine if the problem is a lack of spark or a lack of fuel flow.  Right after it quits, remove the spark plug, reconnect the wire and lay it against the engine head.  Pull the engine over and watch for spark at the plug's electrode.

If good, then try to start while squirting fuel or starting fluid into the carb intake.  If it starts, then the carb most likely has dirt, debris, gummed fuel or water inside.  You will need to remove the carb, disassemble it, clean all the small internal openings and blow it out with compressed air.  Probe each and every hole with a small wire.  A carb rebuild kit wouldn't hurt either.

Let me know how you make out.
Michael

PS - My storage tips:
Springtime equipment starting problems are very common.
In the fall we all just want to park the mower and forget it.  I do that for a week or so but within a month, usually after the leaves are up I do the storage prep.
I first change the oil.  Old oil has acids and other contaminates, which shouldn't sit in an engine for long periods.  Next, I drain the fuel and put in in the car where it will be used up soon.  Then, fill up the tank with new fuel, fresh from the pump.   (Fuel starts to go bad in one month.  It can either gum up in carb or make deposits, clogging the small openings.)  I add fuel stabilizer.  This is the critical part.  Stabilizer, available at equipment or auto supply shops, will keep fuel stable for up to one year.   (I like the brand "Stabil".) I then run the engine for about 5 minutes to run the fuel through the carb and to coat the engine's internal parts with the fresh oil.  Finally, after the engine cools, I remove the spark plug and squirt about a tablespoon or two of engine oil into the cylinder.   After replacing and tightening the spark plug but not connecting the wire, I slowly crank the engine over several times to coat the cylinder walls with oil.  This step prevents rust and helps to keep the rings from sticking in the piston grooves.   That's it! Ready for winter hibernation!  In the spring, it should fire right up.  After the cylinder oil burns off or after the first use, I then change the spark plug.  I also try to use up all the fuel before adding more.  This proceedure, applies to any engine being stored off season.   At storage time it's also good to do other maintenance as required, like: belts, bearing/bushing lube, blade sharpening, air/oil filters, general inspection, etc. Spare parts on hand make it a snap.

With a generator, I keep stabilized fuel in it all the time and add dry gas in the winter.  I try to run it once a month, to keep the fields excited and the cylinders wet.  

Answer
Hi Mike,

It's not that hard.  You would need to disconnect the throttle linkage and shut off or drain the fuel tank.  Unbolt the carb from the block, drain the excess fuel from the float bowl and take it to a clean workbench for disassembly.  Lay out the parts in the order that they were removed.  Make notes if needed.  Do what needs to be done, then re-assemble in the reverse order.  The hardest part is getting started.

Good luck and keep me posted.
Michael