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Eric,
I just wanted to take the time to thank you for all of your help with my problem, by the way..I took your advice about using a angle grinder to get my stack pulley off. Thank goodness I had the sense to buy one a long time ago. It's came in handy MANY times, I originally bought it to sharpen lawnmower blades. When I removed the bootom engine plate, I did indeed find a broken connecting rod. Also, I discovered a small crack in the block on the air filter side. I'm thinking about just using j&b weld to repair it, and replace the connecting rod. Is it difficult to install a new one ? I assume all of the shafts have to be set ( timed ) just right to have everything work correctly. I'd really like to get somemore service from this engine, even though it's rather old. I'm going to talk with another local engine repair shop here and see what I'm told. I've talked with one shop already, and was told they don't rebuild engines, and they wanted to sell me a new one. I've been looking on ebay, and they have new engines for sale ,even a liitle larger than I had for $ 349.00, plus shipping. I'm trying to make the best choice that I can, as I'm on a limited budget. Have a great week..and thanks again for sharing your knowledge and time.
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Dear Eric,
Thanks so much for your previous response, I took your advice and removed the starter from the side of the engine block, I didn't see any cracks in it,maybe I got lucky. I still haven't been able to remove the stack pulley off of the driveshaft, I will for sure have to buy a new one now, as I've totally ruined it. But still haven't got if off, now if I knew where to buy a tool to do so. I'm glad that I don't give up that easy. Thanks
Dear Mr.Jones,
I have a briggs&stratton model # 281707 , type # 0155 , 12 hp IC engine that has a problem. While mowing the other day, it sounded like something broke inside the engine, then it locked up and shut off. I'm a pretty good handyman around the house ,but I've never had to do any major repairs to an engine like this. I started taking some parts off the engine already. One of the first things that I removed was the cylinder head cover. While turning the motor shaft, I see both the intake and exhaust valves move in and out like they are supposed to, but the piston doesn't. I feel like that's where the broken part is inside the engine. This riding mower is pretty old now, we bought it at lowes approx.16 years ago.I know to remove the engine from the deck, that the belt stack pulley that is attached to the engine shaft on the bottom side of the engine has to come off. I removed the bolt that attaches the pulley shaft to the engine shaft, but so far I haven't been able to get the belt shaft off. I looked up inside the beft shaft and see there's a keyway in there. I sprayed a penetrating oil in there to hopefully free it up, but so far no luck. Is there a 'special' tool that's needed to remove that belt shaft ? Also, on the top side of the shaft, I can't get the flywheel nut loose either. I'm debating if this engine is too old to mess with. But still..I have to get the belt shaft off, so I can remove the engine. Thanks for any information you might provide. I know there's a b&s repair manual (# 270962 ) available for this engine, but so far I haven't purchased it, because I didn't know whether the engine was worth it or not.I've already tried using a three jaw gear puller, but once I start applying pressure, the edges of the pulley shaft start to bend, I didn't think that the stack pulley would be attached to the driveshaft so tight. Have a great week !
Answer -
The connecting rod is broke. Remove the starter and see if there are cracks in the engine block. This area is where the block normally cracks when a connecting rod breaks.
As for the stack pulley, there is a key but thats it. Removing the bolt allows the pulley to be removed. However, they are usually rusted to the crankshaft. Pentrating oil, heat, vibration usually will loosen the stack pulley. I've seen special pullers designed not to bend the pulley like you described. I've always been able to get the pulley off, eventually, without damage...you just have to be patient and take your time; sometimes off and on for days, using pentrating oil.
Depending on the condition of the mower, you may want to replace the entire engine, short-block or the mower. Short-blocks are cheaper, but you still have an old carburtor and starter plus it takes more time to install. Engine are more expensive, but you get a direct bolt-on part.
As for the flywheel nut, we use an impact gun, no exception. You can probably use one of those hand impact drivers avaiable at Sears for under $30 bucks. I used to use them to remove screws from motorcycle crankcases, but the air impact gun is much faster.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Eric
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Well, if it is ruined, then you can always cut it off with whatever tool you have handy. A Dremel will do the job, but I prefer a 4 & 1/2 grinder with a cut-off wheel.
I'd recommend cutting the pulley length wise, as not to damage the crankshaft...no sense in ruining 2 parts.
Don't feel too bad, I have had cut off many lawn mower pulleys.
Let me know what you find inside the engine.
Eric
AnswerI'd try some JB weld, install a $30-$40 rod, line up the timing marks on the cam and crank and fire it up.
Make sure you use a new sump/oil pan gasket and lower main seal. The crack may have warped/distorted the block, but probably not enough to really matter...just keep an eye out for oil leaks.
I've been having Internet trouble and it will be down until Monday...so let me know Monday or Tuesday what you decide.
Eric
