QuestionQUESTION: Doug, thanks for the advice, this is a follow up from a couple of questions I've asked you recently on a '95 Thunderbird. (The follow-up tab didn't work.) Everything went well until I got to the point of re-attaching the steering wheel and found that the steering wheel is bottoming out on the shroud, like perhaps the shaft has slipped down into the column. Does this make any sense? Also, do you have any tips for re-seating the tilt spring? Is it better to try and compress it when you align the pivot pins, or should you get the pins in place and then try and squeeze the spring into place? Thanks.
ANSWER: Hey Eric:
They only allow a couple of follow-ups....
It sounds like the lower bearing is not seated inside the housing as you have assembled it. Therefore the snap ring is not in place and the shaft is not high enough (causing the rubbing).
We often have to manually seat the shaft into the lower bearing with a long, large flat bladed screwdriver using the access from the bottom (housing tilted up). Once it seats, you'll feel it. Then set your upper bearings and snap ring.
Regarding the spring, we use that same long large flat bladed screwdriver to twist the spring into place AFTER everything else on the housing is tight and bolted. BE VERY CAREFUL. I've been hit with a loaded spring years ago and you don't want to do that!! Even my technicians have trouble with is part.
Good Luck
Doug
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Doug- Thanks for the help. I finally had time to try to finish the job. When everything was re-assembled, I had another problem. When I hooked up the battery, I was able to start the car twice, and after that, when I turned the key over, the starter didn't engage. I disconnected the battery, reconnected it, and it started again a couple times, and then on the third try the starter stopped engaing again. I also noticed that when I was able to start the car, it wouldn't shift out of park unless I turned the key cylinder just slightly towards me. (counterclockwise) Also, I'm positive that I got the gears in the rack actuator exactly as you instructed and the key cylinder shifts correctly from accessory all the way to the start position. This couldn't be caused by the ignition switch could it? Thanks.
Answer
access hole
Eric:
The electrical switch only bolts in one position, so it's not that. It sounds like the lock cylinder gears are off 1 tooth. You can remove the lock and gears without taking anything else apart. There is an access hole in the bottom for you to reach the release pin. Take them out and try moving the gear 1 tooth back (so it travels more forward next time).
It's a very common error.
