Steering Column Repair: s-10, torsion spring, floor shift

Question
Rob,
Thanks for the quick response.  I had suspected that this was the problem, because the shaft did have some upward and downward play to it (0.25").  I did however, use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Any idea why it still broke the plastic piece?  I will certainly replace the shaft regardless.  
I do have one other question.  There is a torsion spring that is used in the key release mechanism device.  When I disassembled the column, it just fell out.  In reviewing the exploded drawing, it looks as though it is just sandwiched between the key release lever and the housing with the ends of the spring facing toward the hub of the housing "centerline".
It does not appear to be hooked into anything on the ends.  Is that correct?
Thnaks,
Dave
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Followup To
Question -
I replaced the (non-intermittent)wiper switch on my 1989 s-10 truck. (No tilt, floor shift) When reassembling the column, the housing assembly seats fully to the jacket and I can screw it together without any trouble.  Once I place the steering wheel on to finish assembly, the shaft does not protrude enough past the wheel to place the nut and retainer on.  In fact, less than one thread is protruding past the steering wheel and the knearling does not even engage from the wheel to the shaft.
The wiring is all clear and I cannot see or feel any interferences anywhere. It also appears that the ignition lock can only go together in 2 possible manners with respect to the actuator rack) and I have tried both options.  
I have also tried removing all parts in re-assembly, except for the actuator rack which engages the ignition lock (if this helps any).  I was trying to eliminate any other potential problems due to their assembly.  Still no luck.

It APPEARS that either the shaft needs to extend further or the jacket needs to be moved towards the firewall. I have not disassembled either of these parts and they appear to be fixed in location. How can I allieviate this problem?
Regards,
Dave
Answer -
Hello Dave,

 I am going to ask you a question. Did you remove the steering wheel without a puller using a hammer on the shaft? It sounds like the shaft is collapsed. On tilts it is not crucial, on non-tilts you need a new shaft.
This is a two piece shaft that is held together with injected plastic. What it sounds like is you broke this plastic and there is nothing holding the shafts together. In its present situation I would not recommend driving the vehicle because it is not safe. The shaft can litterally split apart going down the road and you will lose steering. This is why I emphasise so much that a steering wheel puller must be used on collapsable steering column. For safety in the event of a collision the steering column mast will collapse with the shaft if your chest hits it. What you have here is a collasped shaft and the mast is not collasped and that is why it is short. The shaft must be changed.
The good news is that if you find a junkyard non-tilt, if you were to remove the wheel with a puller and remove lock plate. Disconnect the steering column mast at firewall, disconnect the shift linkage, remove the 11 mm bolt at the steering box, remove the two 15 mm bolts attaching column to dash and disconnect wiring, lift the mast of the column outward and there is your shaft. Reverse to install.

If you are going to all that work though you should just install a tilt. Make sure you take the column with the electricalignition switch attached. You will need to cut the plastic away a little bit on the ignition switch connector because they work opposite. The actuator on a non-tilt is pushed and the actuator on the tilt pulls the detent of the ignition switch. Make sure your wiring connector color and wires are the same for wiper switch. No difference on T.S.

Answer
Hi,


Some of these shafts are just plain sensitive. Plastic gets old and brittle and sometimes gives way.

As for the key buzzer: Turn the lock to OFF and remove the key. Look down the keybuzzer hole and you will see a tab sticking out of the lock cylinder. Take an awl and push upward. Attach the spring to the key buzzer with the little flat hooked end at the bottom of the buzzer. Squeeze together and insert into the hole pushing down lightly. Key buzzer will seat and thats all there is to it. One note: Before you do this make sure the lock cylider retaining screw is installed first.

Good luck!