Triumph Repair: TR7 Water Pump Overhaul, haynes manual, gear teeth

Question
Hi Howard,
I was reviewing an earlier Q&A on TR7 water pump overhaul and I need a clarification if possible.  This was related to the spindle bushing discussion, but I'm not clear on what part of the pump assembly was being discussed.  
The water pump in my '80 TR7 (Mfg. Aug. '79) is a 12 vane type but differs from what is shown in my Haynes manual, the 'Complete Official TR7...' manual and images shown in Victoria British, etc. in that it does not have the brass cage.  It looks just like the picture for ebay item #730090907.  Between the two rubber seals there is a very thin 'shield' about .020" larger in diameter than the 1.375" diameter bearing.  It would appear I need to remove this piece to renew the lower seal and the bearing, but it doesn't look that that would be an easy job.  I'm afraid if it try to fit anything 'under' the piece to push it off in the direction where the impeller fits I will damage the piece due to its shape and the thim material from which it is made.
Can you provide advice?

Thank You,
John

Answer
Hi John,

If the thin metal slinger does not come in the repair kit you can just pry up on the lower seal and that will force the slinger off without damaging it. You will damage the lower seal that way but you need to replace it anyway. You have to remove all of that anyway to get to the snap ring that holds the bearing on the shaft.

Be sure the angle of the gear teeth match the gear teeth on the jack shaft as many have been changed over the years and even some aftermarket companies have the wrong ones listed. Then when assembling be sure to just put in the shaft with the lower bearing on and snap ring and hand check to see that the shaft has a very slight rotational free play. This is how I confirmed that the gear teeth were the correct match. Then install the lower seal (lip upward) and then the thin metal slinger and last the water seal and the impeller (but first make sure the angle of the blades matches the angle of the top cover. WHAT EVER YOU DO DON'T TAP ON THE IMPELLER TO GET IT ON TO THE SHAFT !!!) Use the left threaded bolt to force the impeller on. If you tap on the impeller you will be in danger of knocking the shaft down out of the snap ring and in less then a month of running the pump will be destroyed.

The books say to put the cover on with no gaskets and lightly install the three bolts and adjusting them to get a even gap all the way around and use a feeler gauge to get the correct gaskets to get the inner clearance correct (.010" to .025") but I like to just install all the gaskets and tighten the cover with modeling clay on the impeller blades and the center bolt. Then remove the cover and you can see the clearance and adjust the number of gaskets to get the correct clearance.

Howard