QuestionQUESTION: Howard,
I just got new seat foams and covers for my 1976 TR7, the instructions they came with aren't too good (not enough pictures for me !), do you know of any good instructions out there to rebuild the seats ?
Thanks,
Steve.
ANSWER: Hi Steve,
There may be some out there somewhere but I couldn't find any as I am rebuilding a set of TR-7 seats now that I am installing in my modified MGB-GT V-8 conversion. I removed the original covers and had a local trim shop make a set of covers in the colors to match my car.
To get the head rests off you need to undo the back cover and fold it upwards until you get to the headrest shaft and then just compress the two spring loaded ears at the bottom with a pair of channel lock pliers and bump the shaft upward. Remove chrome handles that lock the backs in place and remove the two small screws that hold each of the plastic covers and the rest is pretty much obvious with the flat clips and round clips.
I would write down how many clips go where as I had forgotten by the time I was ready to put it back together. I was lucky because I had extra clips that I had removed from an MG seat (same clips) You will probably need a new set of bottom seat diaphragms too, as most are dry rotted.
Note how the old ones had the center sections pulled in so they don't just look like seat covers. I didn't think the factory pulled them in enough so I ran heavy cord through the little flaps and tied the cords to each other lacing them through the holes in the seat diaphragms. On the backs I ran a heavy strap across from one side to the other and then laced the center flap over the strap I had run. This way it pulled the center of the back cover in better. Just folding it over the foam back didn't pull it in to suit me like the factory did. When the seats were new they looked ok but as they aged, not so great. That is why I did it different.
Howard
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QUESTION: Howard,
Thanks for the tip about the extra tension for the pull through cover straps. I took one seat apart last night and I may also replace the diaphragms - I noticed a few small holes in it. And I may also replace the back straps that seem loose - man, this is becoming a much more expensive job than I planned ! I may try to find alternatives to save some money like maybe using truck inner tube rubber etc. But I want the seats to be comfortable, I didn't go to the same lengths with my Spitfire, I just replaced the covers and made side foams for the back but I find I get back ache on a long drive...
Thanks again,
Steve.
ANSWER: I don't think the diaphragms were too expensive. The seat covers were the expensive items and you already have them.
Howard
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Howard,
You're right, VB has them for $50 each, I guess I should be happy I can even get them !
Cheers,
Steve.
Answer
Seat&Wheel1x1.jpg
You have gone a long way so it pays to complete the job right.
Here is a picture of my seat in for a "Fit Check" to locate the steering wheel and pedals. This is a TR-7 seat with the head rest removed. The sides and back are dark green with yellow piping to match the car which is a BRG in a "Pearl" showing silver in the sun light and Yellow and green flames down the sides. (I will probably be lynched by the local British Car Club as "Flames" seem to be "Taboo" on MGs ha!)
I also have a story about my TR-7 on my web site if you are interested. I converted my TR-7 to run on straight grain alcohol (Ethanol) http://mg-tri-jag.net/alcohol_fuel.htm
Howard
