QuestionI own a 2000 Golf, with the 2.0 gas engine, that my oldest daugther drives and it has 125,000 miles on it. She only uses it around town, work and school.
Three weeks ago the VW dealership did some normal maintenance and also performed a recall pertaining to the fuel line nipple that could crack due to too much tension. The recall also could involve the fuel pump when I researched it. Anyway, they replaced the plastic nipple on the fuel line down by the fuel tank.
Since that time there were two ocassions where the car just wouldn't turn over, kind of like when you are out of gas, and eventually would but the check engine light stayed on. After the second time I drove it back to the dealership that night and in the morning they called to say it started fine and the light wasn't on. I asked if they could please double check what happened during the recall and they again stated nothing was wrong but could they keep it overnight. The next afternoon I get a call stating they had found the problem. There was a crack in the fuel rail and it needed to be replaced. Here we are, we've had the car back for 5 days and out of the blue it didn't start!
My daughter was afraid to drive the car and when I got home it did start but the "check engine" light stayed on. I turned it off and on several times and after the 6th time the check engine light did go off.
I've very frustrated for it was expensive to replace the fuel rail, and of course there was the diagnostic fee, and now we are back to square one.
Any advice or ideas would be appreciated.
AnswerHi Robert;
Sorry for your difficulty. I know how a less than perfect car can cause a young driver to become more than a little concerned. The fuel tank, and the "nipple" at the top of the pump is easy to see for anyone with a Phillips screwdriver, and 15 minutes. Since this is a Golf, I will hope it is a 4 door Golf, and not a 2 door, but even if a 2 door, it is still not that difficult, just a little inconvenient. You have to stretch more. Anyway, remove the seat bottom. It's held on the bottom by 2 bent pieces of wire that are rather flexible. Passenger side seat bottom, sorry. Set it to the side. Peel back the carpet/carpet pad to where the floor comes up to the seat bottom. Remove the 3 screws on the cover plate on the floor. Remove the cover plate. Now, you will be able to see the top of the fuel tank, and the top of the pump. The new fitting should have a 90 degree angle shape to it, the old one was just straight. The recall fitting is made of a black plastic material, and may, or may not be there...ie., the 90 degree angle one. If it is there I apologize to the dimwitted technician that installed it and crimped the fuel line inside the tank when he/she inspected the pump for the same recall procedure. To get the pump out to straighten the line, the supply line to your engine you must remove the ring that goes around the opening for the pump assembly, and then you must lift up slightly on the pump assembly where there will be 2 corrugated plastic pipes that are sort of "looped" around, under the pump cover. The pump cover is spring loaded, and I imagine that when the ham handed gorilla tech from "Bruiser U." pushed down on the pump to reseat it into the opening in the top of the tank he/she crimped the line so you don't get consistent fuel pressure, and the car either won't start, or dies. What are the codes that are left behind when the Check engine light comes on? The ring on the top of the fuel tank can be removed by using a block of hardwood, long, and narrow, and a mallet of rawhide, or a deadblow hammer filled with lead shot. Just keep walking around the ring with the wood, and the mallet, and it will eventually give way...a little penetrating lubricant from a spray can can help a little too. I'll bet dollars to doughnuts that there was nothing wrong with the fuel rail. I would check something else first, because it is easier, and you won't smell like gasoline right away while you are doing it. There is a small piece of tubing that goes to the "fuel pressure regulator" and the intake manifold. It is on the passenger side of the engine, right on top, and it looks like an old "dashpot" like they used to use to reduce the shock of a throttle spring in the old carburetor days. It should have a woven vacuum line attached to it, with no breaks or cracks, and the woven vacuum line is notorious for cracking, and breaking. Replace it first. If that cures it great. Otherwise, retrace the steps of the "Bruiser U." graduate. Hope this helps, Robert. Good luck.
