QuestionQUESTION: Several months ago, I began getting a smoke smell in the passenger compartment of my 2002 Passat when I ran the heat or AC. Two repair places have been unable to diagnose or fix the problem. It is worse after the car has been sitting for a day or two, and usually only persists for the first 10 minutes or so of driving. The smell really hits me when I'm stopped at a light. It isn't that noticeable while driving on the highway. Please let me know if you know what's going on.
ANSWER: Hi Steve. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. My home computer broke. I fix cars, not computers.
My take is this. The "suction jet pump" is probably clogged, and making too much internal crankcase pressure. This forces oil out of the cam tensioner seal, and the "valve cover." It can also contribute to forcing oil out of any weak seal, or oil fitting on the turbo itself. I am merely presuming that your Passat is a 1.8T, and not a 2.8 liter V6. Change the suction jet pump, the 3 way crankcase breather hose, the cam tensioner seal, and the valve cover gasket. Then start changing your oil a LOT more often. Every 2500 to 3000 miles, with pure synthetic, and use the extra big Volkswagen filter for you application. Don't go over on oil changes either. Sludge builds up, and clogs the suction jet pump...and pretty darned quick, at that. Hope this helps Steve. I wish I could just say change a filter, and your done, but at 36,000 to 45,000 miles I begin to see these problems, and it's all because of the frequency of oil changes, and/or the type/quality of oil used too.
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QUESTION: Thank you for your response and all the great information! My car is a 2.8 liter V6, I should have specified that. Please let me know if a novice like me can make the repairs you described. If not, approximately how much would they cost?
A strange thing happened since I wrote to you. After getting a different problem fixed at the repair shop, my splash pad or splash tub (the plastic thing under the car that keeps water off the engine) fell down and scraped against the freeway. The repairman had failed to secure it. They put a new one on a few days later. But my smoking problem went away for a good two weeks after that! Unfortunately, it has resurfaced to a lesser extent.
ANSWER: Hi Steve;
Now that I know this car is a 2.8L V6, and an "ATQ" engine code, since it is a 2002 V6, my original response is even more applicable. The suction jet pump does get clogged on these engines too, and furthermore, instead of only one cam tensioner seal, there are now two of them, and one of the cam tensioners is right at the base of the windshield on the passenger side of the car where the pollen filter is. They are only separated by about 11, or 12 inches, and the outer bulkhead where the engine is separated from the master cylinder for the brakes, and the battery compartment. The pollen filter is getting the fumes of the burning oil as it drips off of the cylinder head, and onto the hot exhaust manifold, where it is then taken into the car through the pollen filter, and the ventilation system. By the way, we just refer to the "tub" as the "belly pan."
So, to get to the overall repair...(1) Replace the suction jet pump, (2) Replace both cam tensioner seals, and (3) Replace the crankcase breather hoses...there are several of them, but the one that is most usually to blame for your symptoms is the 3 way hose that goes from the passenger side of the engine all of the way across the engine, in front, and then along the drivers side valve cover to the back of the engine where it joins with the rest of the crankcase breather system. (This hose is long, and made of a fluted, or corrugated design, and it has connectors on it that sort of "snap" into place. Where it goes across the engine it falls into a fixture that is part of the upper engine, and it is made from a cast aluminum material, that is immediately in front of the coil pack for the ignition system.) I am willing to guarantee that this particular hose has been broken, and you were never told. It has been taped back together with electrical tape, or it has had some tubing placed around it to hide the fact that some "lube tech." broke it when he was trying to remove, or replace the upper engine covers, with the "DZUZ" fasteners. To prove this to yourself, open the hood, remove the center cover, then remove the 2 covers on the valve covers. They are kind of problematic to replace, but you can get them back on with a little patience, and if you survey them carefully before removal. Finally to complete the repair, have the valve cover gaskets replaced too. Steve, I expect that you will have better repair experiences if you take your Passat to a German car specialist, at least. If there is no trustworthy Volkswagen dealer in your area, at least look around, and shop for a good Volkswagen, or German car specialist. I know I'm reading into what you have told me already, but I imagine you have been taking your car to "Spiffy Oil Changers," or something like that where they are quick, convenient, and cheap. Unfortunately, they can't even remove or replace the belly pan on the car without damage, so what does that say about their ability to actually change your oil, and filter. Furthermore, this past week, I heard that there is a class-action lawsuit against a company like that for putting used oil into customer cars, and charging for it as if it were new. Please also begin to follow an oil change schedule that is a little more often, and use the synthetic oil, it will be a great benefit especially if you plan to keep this car for a while.
The crankcase breather hose can easily be accomplished by you, but the cam tensioner seals, and the suction jet pump are repairs that I honestly recommend the dealer for. The reason for that is they see these cars everyday, are familiar with them, and know what can go wrong when doing these repairs, and they avoid those types of problems just because of their familiarity with the product. I know dealers are usually more expensive, but I know from experience with these parts that they are correctly installed the first time, more often, at the dealer, than at other repair outlets. I would use some of the information I have given you here to interview some potential repair places...even the local dealer for that matter, and see what they have to say. I hope this helps some, Steve. I apologize for continuing to heap more on top of what I've already said, but I just want to be thorough, and give you as much information as I can without adding to the confusion, which I probably did anyway. Good luck. Keep me posted.
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QUESTION: Thanks again for all your help. The strange thing is that I have never gone to a quick lube place, at least not with this car. I've either gone to the dealer or a German car place. Unfortunately, I've had problems with both. So I've paid premium money for poor service.
Just a couple more quick questions: Is this a problem something I need to handle right away. I've coped with the smell, but could it cause bigger problems if left unchecked? I have a long trip ahead - 800 miles - and would like to know if you recommend getting it done beforehand. I have noticed some hesitation when accelerating - could that be related? Please let me know at your convenience. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated.
AnswerThanks for the update, Steve;
The biggest problem I can forsee is the cam tensioner seals will simply "blow out," and you will ahve a continuous oil seepage from both sides of the engine. The overall design of the "suction jet pump" is a complete "boondoggle" at best. There is a supplemental, mechanical vacuum pump that will operate the braking system, so there is never any real danger of a complete failure within the braking system, it's just that the oil seepage will continue to get worse, and the engine will continue to be an ongoing mess. Additionally, regarding paying more, and getting "less(?)" there are few people even at the shop where I work who really take pride in the job, or rather in each job. I am one of the "old guys," and I do the repair...RIGHT. To me the only way to do the job is the correct way the first time. I have fewer "come backs" than anybody else in the entire shop, but I am slower than over half, and I'm the guy over half come to for advice on how to do the repair in the first place. So, I'm a dying breed. It would probably be easiest to establish a raport with a technician at a German specialist, than at the dealer, but you never know. How handy are you with a set of tools, Steve? Get a "Bentley's" repair manual for the V6 Passat...B5 generation...and do it yourself! Your knuckles might get bloody, a little, and you might add some new expressions to the Celtic language, but suction jet pump, valve cover, crankcase breather hose, and pollen filter replacement is not really all that hard. It is time consuming if you aren't familiar with what to take apart, and what NOT to take apart, but with a method of 2 steps forward, and 6 steps back...you can get it done. That's one way to ensure that the oil changes get done with synthetic way more often too. Once you find out what a hassle it is to replace some of the simple stuff, you won't dare risk the really high dollar repairs, huh? I wish I could say go to such and such, they'll take care of you, but I don't know anybody except myself that well. Good luck, Steve. I hope I began to answer your question. Go ahead, and drive the car.
