QuestionQUESTION: Hello- I have a 2003 S40 with about 62,000 miles on it. A few months ago, my check engine light illuminated and I brought it to our local Volvo specialist. They advised that the code indicated that the variable cam reset valve (?)was faulty (either the sensor or the valve itself), reset the code and advised me to return if the light reappeared (assuring me that it wasn't an "urgent" repair issue and was probably just a bad sensor). A day or so later, the light was back on again. Due to some logistics with our local Volvo specialist, I was unable to get the car back for repairs for several weeks, but was advised that it was OK to drive the car for a while with the light on. As time went by, I noticed that the engine was experiencing a rough idle, and seemed to be lacking power for the first few miles of the day (improved as it was driven). I informed the mechanic who mentioned that the problem could mimic a rough idle and that the timing might seem off until the problem was fixed. Getting tired of the delay in getting the car repaired by our local shop, I brought the car to a dealer who replaced the sensor, which in turn reset the check engine light. The car still ran a little rough, but didn't cause me too much concern.
A few days later, the check engine light was back on again. The dealer explained that the code could indicate a bad sensor (which we had already replaced, so that wasn't it) or the actual valve assembly (a more extensive and expensive repair job). I mentioned that the car was seeming to run rougher, and since it was getting colder out, I was noticing the rough idle and lack of power (also, kind of delayed or soft shifting when first driven in the am) more and more. I brought the car back, and the dealer shop replaced the part (hub?), changed the oil to a synthetic blend and added an additive to the oil. He felt that this combination would fix the rough idle and lack of pwer (again, something that's much worse when started cold and lessens as the car warms up). When I picked up the car, the check engine light was off, and the idle seemed a little better, but still wasn't normal. I figured it would get better over time, and wanted to give the additive time to work.
As you can probably guess, the idle and lack of power problem still exists. It's been quite cold, and the problem had either worsened or is more apparent due to the cold weather. The dealer shop seems stumped, and I haven't returned to them yet, as I'm somewhat doubtful that they'll properly diagnose the cause of the symptoms. The car has had no other problems (other than some strut mounts that needed to be replaced). I believe the plugs are the original ones, and was told that they should have been replaced at 45k miles. I mentioned this to the mechanic but he seemed to be doubtful that plugs were the problem.
Any thoughts?
Thank you so much for reading this lengthy explanation. I appreciate any help you may provide.
ANSWER: Peter, I sure would like to know what the "code" was. Do you have that information?
Mark
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QUESTION: Hey Mark,
The initial code was ECM-61. That's what was cleared the first time with no repairs made (the light reappeared a day later). The same code is on the invoice from the dealer when the second repair was made (first time = sensor, second time = hub) on 12/19. Here are more details from that invoice:
replaced CVVT hub & gasket assembly
parts: CV (>$500), pulley, sealing ring, cap
replaced engine oil and filter, added BG MOA #110 engine oil conditioner.
The technician felt that the engine idled fine after these steps were taken. It was better (I think - again, seems weather dependent), but definitely not "fine". Much worse now.
Something else I failed to mention - the "rough" idle seems louder than usual, and kind of like there's an exhaust leak somewhere (my description). Again, it gets better once the car is driven a while and warms up.
Thanks again!
-Peter
ANSWER: Peter, has the timing belt timing been checked. It may have slippped a tooth on one of the gears? I do not like oil additives. You are probably hearing valve train noise, clicking, not an exhaust leak, because of the additive?
Mark
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QUESTION: There could be clicking, but the "noise" has been accompanying the rough idle and lack of power (and soft shifting) all along - before the additive. I don't know if they've checked the timing belt - don't think so. The thing that perplexes me is the fact that this problem nearly disappears after driving the car for a few miles, but happens every time the car is cold. I'm admittedly clueless, but if it were a timing belt issue, wouldn't it happen all the time, or at least not correlate to cold starts?
Thanks again!
-Peter
Answer This phrase bothers me. "nearly disappears after driving the car for a few miles" What does "nearly" mean to you? Almost all rough running problems get "better" warm, but nothing is fixed. Just masked. Not trying to be a smart A.., but I would check the belt timing. HTH
Mark
