Volvo Repair: Intermittent no start and guages not working, turbo model, turning the key

Question
QUESTION: I recently purchased a 1988 740 with an intermittent start problem that has recently turned into a full time no start problem.  At first I thought it was the ignition switch as I noticed that when it didn't start the gauges seemed not to work and the radio did not come on.   I replaced the switch (new part) and it did not help.   Now the key in the ignition chime sounds when the key is out and the door is open.  Is this just an adjustment?  It did it with the other switch but you could make it stop by turning the key to the extreme left and pulling the key out very fast.  I took the fuse relay out and jumped across two connectors the Hayes manual said to.   I heard the pump come on and car started.  Also, when the motor is cranking its to loud to hear if the fuel pump is running.   Being a thrifty individual (especially after purchasing the switch from the dealer) I went to the junk yard for a relay.    I found 2, one with the same part number (about same year car) and one in a turbo model.   Neither one worked to make the pump come on.   But of course both were in the junkyard for some reason. I did notice that almost all of the Volvos in the yard were missing this relay or a computer.   Any ideas?   Should I bite the bullet and buy a new relay or look for something else?   Thanks for your help.  Update, I was doing some trouble shooting tonight and put one of the junk yard relays in and the car started up and has bee fine every time I tried it (about 15 times).   It idled for almost an hour without any problem.  The chime still sounds with the key out and the door open and the dash gauges (temp fuel)don't work.   Any ideas what is causing that.  Again, thank you for any help.

ANSWER: Richard, I wish people would only use Haynes for Toilet paper but anyway, The chime unit is the culprit.  Just remove the ashtray assembly and remove the big blue unit towards the back of the relay panel. Didi you check fuse 5 to see if it was blown?  You may be having a problem with the ignition suppression module.  Its on the firewall by the air filter or the black relay in the engine bay.  These are things you should check first.  If the original fuel relay had a date of 1988 then you know its time for a new one.  Roger

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QUESTION: Does the chime unit stick on?   Is there a chance something is on and the chime is sounding because of it?   Will removing it affect anything else?   What does the engine suppression module do?   (It still starts and runs today)   Does the engine suppression module have anything to do with the gauges not working?   Number 5 was ok but number three was blown.   Replacing it did not affect anything.   The relay (original) had a 1994 date on it.   The junkyard  replacement (same part number) has a 2004 date on it.   Thank you for your help

Answer
Richard, the chime unit just goes bad over the years.  Its also the seat belt chime.  It does not affect anything else.  The supresstion relay is basically a ignition relay.  No, it has nothing to do with the gauges.  Which gauges are not working?  If its fuel and temp, tap the glass and see if they work.  The only thing you can try if they work when you tap, it to take the cluster out and tight the screws.  As far as running, when it dies again, get back to me and we can go further.  Roger