QuestionThank you...If possible, I have 3 questions relative to your repsonse: 1) Removing the cover from my spare programmer, I see the plastic gears which have all the teeth intact but I can hardly turn the rod at all since the mechanism is in the 'heat' position but I can push the lower spring loaded arm into the vacuum motor with my thumb; 2)if the plastic gear teeth are intact inside a programmer, is the problem still in the gear motor assembly and are such parts available? 3) Is it worth purchasing a programmer tester and following the outlined test procedures?
Thanking you wholeheartedly for your consideration...If you don't have time to answer, I am still grateful for the help you have given me.
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
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Heat started going out slowly - a month ago, auot blower would come on but would take 3-10 muntes to blow hot. Then heat quit altogether. Could not move power programmer rod when connected nor disconnected but disconnecting threaded rod to power rod on programmer allows full heat now. Is the symptom of gradual loss of heat indicative of a certain programmer part? Are programmer parts available? (I have a used programmer, but cannot move the power actuating rod very far at all by hand effort.)
thanks very very much...........
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Inside the programmer is a small electric motor that has plastic gears and the gears strip off and the motor needs to be replaced.
AnswerIf your only problem is no blower operation. There is a TURN ON sensor located near the front spark plug on the passengers side which is buried in a recessed hole and has a single green wire attached to it. Ground out this wire and see if the blower works.
If the sensor is not there, look on the drivers side of the engine about half way back on the side of the engine for a single green wire and ground that one.
