Questionwut is the easiest way to drop the fuel tank on a 96 camaro?
AnswerHello Heidi,
Removing the fuel tank on any car is a difficult process. Here are the actual, detail-by-detail instructions for the '96 Camaro:
It's much easier if you have a helper but these directions are written with the solo artist in mind. Might want to do this outside where the fumes won't kill you. Be careful, use good jackstands, not paint cans and DON'T SMOKE AROUND YOUR CAR WHILE DOING THIS! (you laugh, someone would do it I guarantee)
Drive the car until it's almost out of gas. IF you can't because the old pump is dead, siphon it out. If you don't do this the reinstall of the tank is going to be much harder.
Jack the rear end up as high as possible, putting the jack on the bottom of the differential.
Put jack stands under the body of the car. Pull off electrical harness on fuel pump. Try to start the car a few times (to run it out of gas and relieve system pressure)
Take off passenger side wheel
Undo the bottom shock bolts and the sway bar end links
Undo panhard bar bolt (Where it attaches to axle)
Lower jack until car rests on jackstands. Lower axle another inch.
Remove springs and isolaters from top (Otherwise they will fall later and scare the $hit out of you when you're under the car)
Lower the axle as far as you can without stretching the brake lines
Disconnect rear section of exhaust pipe from cat. Dual cat models you can disconnect the exhaust at the slip connector in front of the Y-pipe, it should come out pretty easy.
Remove rear section of exhaust system from car. You may need to wiggle it out if you didn't jack the car up enough
Remove the 2 heat shields
Remove all hoses, wiring harnesses from gas tank, open fuel filler door and remove gas cap, and black plastic "cup". Leave the line going to the fuel filter until later
Get another jack and place jack on bottom of gas tank (tank will easily dent if there is a lot of gas in it, use a 2x4 or solid piece of wood to jack against) unbolt both straps.
Slowly lower gas tank. This part is the PITA. My tank had to be pried out, it was up there pretty good. When it is low enough to reach behind, disconnect the fuel feed line from the top of the tank. You may have to remove the taped-on foam protection to get to it.
Remove tank from car, being careful not to rest the weight of the tank on the filler neck if at all possible. If it snaps you get to buy a new gas tank!
Clean top of sender area with some compressed air, try not to get it wet or you get mud thats hard to get off.
(Optional) spray area with penetrating oil
Work the outside ring loose (I used a hammer and a screwdriver, hitting the tabs in a circular motion) If you work it around in a circle a few times it will come off (96+ models may have 5 bolts that hold the ring on, just unbolt them and it all comes out pretty easy).
Pull out the assembly, be careful, sensitive electronics in there. There will be some force, there is a spring in there holding it tight. You will probably need to twist it to get it out at the end to clear the "bobber"
remove and install the new pump, this is what I did
Turn the assembly upside down in a catch can or the tank itself to drain out remaining fuel
Undo the fuel return line from the metal end at the inside top of the assembly
Unclip the free air hose from the bracket (its there to return fuel to the tank) and remove the plastic flex hose from the clip at the top of the bracket
Remove the strainer, and pry up the metal tabs at the bottom of the plastic housing with a small screwdriver
Pull the plastic assembly down and away from the bracket, watch out for fuel spill!
Using a small screwdriver, unsnap the lid from the plastic assembly carfully.
Pull out the old pump and save the rubber O-rings and rubber grommet on the top of the pump
Place the new pump (not sure if it comes with the rubber already?) in the plastic container where the old pump was. If installing a Walbro:
1. cut the old gasket to fit the walbro top, I was able to just remove 2 small sections that were corner pieces and it fit OK
2. leave the O-Ring off the botton, it won't fit. A.R.E. actually sells a pump with a machined bottom part so it does fit with the o-ring.
Replace the cover to the plastic box, and seal it together using a fuel safe epoxy or cement. Some people have used superglue, but I'm not sure thats a great idea...try not to get too much slopped around as anything that can come off the assembly could get stuck in your new pump and burn it out.
If using a Walbro, cut about 1/2 inch off the supplied rubber hose, then clamp to the line out on the pump. Remove the plastic clip from the fuel feed line at the top of the bracket and clamp the hose to it. If using a stock pump, remove the old plastic flex line by prying carefully up off the old pump, replace on new pump (assuming the new puimp doesn't come with a new line)
Replace the assembly in the bracket, and reconnect the two fuel lines you removed earlier.
reverse the directions from here.
Before you start it, replace the fuel filter. Then cycle ignition to on (not start) - off - on - off a few times to get the gas all the way to the front of the car.
Start the car. Look/smell for leaks. Go get gas before you fry this fuel pump. May want to add a bottle of fuel system cleaner for the he11 of it.
Hope this helps you!
Good luck!
-Ray A. Hawk
