QuestionQUESTION: My headlights are extremely dim and fade to near nothing after a short time. Last night after turning bright lights on for 10 minutes, dim lights did not work. Turned car off for 5 minutes, then started car, no headlights for 3 second, I heard a click the4n headlights went on and lasted less that leatheran 5 minutes. The night before, while in mountains, as headlights faded, I left 2 slight shocks on my hands on one part of steering wheel that leather had worn off. German repair shop in Pasadena said needed higher wattage bulbs(this was on Thursday) Friday dealer in Bakersfield put bulbs in (both did not see a problem with lights), however last night, getting off freeway, I could not see offramp.(Wednesday night AAA towed me from Highway A2 to Pasadana due to no headslights)
I am now in Salinas and would like to drive back up coast home but it will entail driving at night. I have new alternator and battery
ANSWER: New does not necessarily mean good...
Did you replace the voltage regulator with the alternator. If it is internal to the alternator then that may be OK. If the voltage regulator is external, then it should have been changed at the time the alternator was installed.
Were these changed because of the lighting problem?
If not, did the lighting problem begin after the change to the new alternator, or battery?
Remember that the alternator provides power for all accessories, lights, radio, AC etc. The battery is a reserve for cranking or when in traffic when alternator is not providing full voltage..
The alternator needs to provide 13.5 volts consistently to compensate for the draw on the battery. 12volts or below indicates a faulty regulator or alternator.
Autoszone or Walmart and some other parts houses will check the alternator and battery for free.
If the engine is starting with ease... as in a full battery, then you need to check the ground wires.
Any where there are ground wires in the light circuit need to be cleaned to a bright condition. Start with making sure that the battery terminals and and the ground connection to the battery is very clean.
Bad connections lead to high resistance causes excess heat and drainage on the battery.
Feel of the fittings and wires when you loose lights. This can be an indication of the place where the wires are loose.
Check the fuse holder for the light circuit. If the fuse is hot, remove the fuses and clean the holder with some scotch brite pad or emery cloth.
Good Luck..Let us know how things turn out.
Rob
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QUESTION: Last summer the car would need a jump if lights left on and connections to battery would loose connection and need to be cleaned. I then replaced battery and connections and had intermittent left tail light problems. Replaced battery, and had new alternator in October. Problems persisted and mechanic agreed to fix for free in spare time, as I has paid practically the value of the car amd tail light issues remained. It was in shop from October 2008 and then just before he sold shop, I took car to only other repair shop in area (dealers with computers are 4 plus hours away) Discovered alternator was defective and was replaced with the voltage thing a few weeks ago along with some leaking gaskets. I picked up car last Thursday (it was gone since October)and advised I everything fine. family medical emergancy necessitated a drive to Southern California, when the lights ( as well as new major oil leaks)Engine is running well,(I picked up large speeding ticket in Mojave) but engine is kind of smokey and am adding oil alot I just want to get it home, and return it to it's real home, the repair shop. I also looked at fuses
AnswerFirst thing is to take the vehicle to AutoZone and have the alternator, regulator and battery checked. 13.5 volts is minimum. They should be able to place a load on the battery and check to see that the alternator is recharging as required.
Make sure that the top of the battery as well as the terminals are clean. Use some petroleum jelly or similar lub on the terminals, on install those little red and grean chemical felt washer under the terminals. Clean the negative wire where it mounts to the engine or chassis. Clean any other ground straps between the body and frame.
FUSES:
These are the bullet type fuses, Yes?
REMOVE the fuses and replace with NEW ceramic Copper Tip units. Do this at the very minimum on all your light circuits and large ampeage fuses. I would do it on all the fuses. The ceramic aluminum tip fuses have galvanic corrosion where they sit in the copper holders for so long.
The holders need to be polished with a brass wool or brass wire brush before the new fuses are re inserted.
You definitely have some grounding issues with this vehicle.
When you clean the fuse holders.
One at a time pull the relay and replace them while wiggling them back into their slots, Will not hurt to do this a couple of time to improve their connection with their holders.
If you can get to the head light socket wires, pull them off and reinsert them to help with the corrosion there. Rear tail light bulbs should be removed and the sockets and bulb ends cleaned too. Use scotch brite pad or emory cloth not steel wool.
This is how bad this can get. I have a 1986 420 sel. The fuel pump started acting up and I pulled the pump control relay. The corrosion was causing intermittent action of the pump. One evening while on the road i fixed it by removing the unit and licking, yes licking the spades before reinserting it into its holder. Eventually I had to replace the relay.
Good Luck
Rob
