QuestionQUESTION: Hope you can help. I've a 1976 W115 Merc which has a problem with the indicator lever - it won't click into position properly so one ends up having to hold the lever during maneuvers which is far from satisfactory. Both directions have this problem.
ANSWER: pretty common issue, sometimes it is just a buildup of gunk , but more likely it is worn out. The good news is you can try to fix it yourself. Pull the little rubber boot off and spray in some electric switch cleaner, work it back and forth. If that does not work you can remove the unit ( two screws I think) and try to file square the detents that hold the lever in place. Sometimes the detents for left and right wear out over the years,look at the detent notches, you should be able to see the problem. A couple swipes file will usually square off the detent notches so they hold the lever in position You will see what I mean. Sometimes they actually crack, in which case you would have to find a new/used one or live with holding it
good luck and happy motoring!
Ron
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QUESTION: Spot on with your advice about the indicator was able to file it level and since then it has been much better. Thank you. There is another problem (same car) I'd like to fix which is that the clock on the dash doesn't work. Have you an equally easy fix for this one? I removed the section from the dash but balked at removing the speedo cable from the back - didn't want to end up with a jittery speed indicator.
Answerglad to hear it worked! Actually the clock can be fixed and you are right you must remove the dash pod. It is quite simple to do, remove electrical connections, speedo cable and oil pressure line. On these ol gals the steering wheel can be left in place.
Once out the fun begins.
IF IT IS A VDO CLOCK use the following to repair, if it is a KEINZLE clock, email me back, they are a bit more difficult to open up.
It's not at all difficult. Pull out the instrument cluster, spin
off the two finger-screws that hold the clock to the circuit board, and pullit out front.
Make note of the condition of the white plastic clock case. Does it have a
blue plastic lock on one of the nuts? If so, then it hasn't been worked on.
Does it have a paper tape over the adjust hole? If so, it probably hasn't
been adjusted.
Break off the seal with small diagonal pliers, then remove the nuts with a
4.5mm nut driver. Pull off the case. The fuse is probably gone. Look for
a tiny blob of metal rolling around. If it's not rolling around, then it
may be jammed in the gearwork somewhere, and it must be found. The fuse is
normally located on one side of the solenoid. One of its electrodes will
have sprung away, and now lies against the phenolic back-plate. You will
see the holes in this and the stationary electrodes where the fuse/rivet was
installed.
Spring the bronze piece back so that the two holes match. While maintaining
tension on this spring, heat the junction with a soldering iron, and
introduce a little bit of tin/lead solder, sticking together the two metal
electrodes and establishing a conducting path.
Clean the soot out of the inside of the case, just to be neat. Use a
relay-contact burnisher on the points, or use a small bit of 600-grit emery
paper. Note that when you put a little force on the flywheel (where half of
the points is) the clock should start smartly and begin running. You can
cock the winder manually with a little flick of the flywheel (clockwise, if
you are looking toward the back of the clock) and watch it run until the
points touch.
Do not get near this clock with WD-40. WD-40 has its place, but that place
is not on the same bench with a clock.
Connect the clock to a 12-volt supply and observe its running. Set it. Let
it run overnight. Note the time, and adjust as appropriate. Adjustment is
a gradual, subtle procedure, and should never be rushed. Don't expect too
much accuracy from such a simple movement.
Good luck and have fun
Ron
