Second-generation ignition lock-cylinder issues are fairly common, and can run you more than $500 to fix at a dealership. This problem is caused by premature wear on the tumblers in the ignition lock mechanism, and is characterized by a key that sticks in the On or Ooff position, an engine that continues to run even with the key removed and a steering wheel that locks or unlocks when it's not supposed to. Fortunately, this is a fairly easy fix that shouldn't cost you more than $30 to replace and another $50 to have a new transponder key cut, if you need one.
Disconnect the car's negative ("-") battery terminal.
Remove the black ignition key surround ring by prying it off with a thin-bladed, slotted screwdriver.
Remove the five 5.5-mm screws from the bottom of the plastic steering-column trim piece. You'll need to use a small deep-well socket; a larger one will get stuck in the screw recesses. With the screws removed, the top and bottom trim pieces will clam-shell off of the column.
Insert the ignition key and turn it all the way to the accessory or "ACC" position.
Depress the locking tab on top of the ignition lock cylinder with a small slotted screwdriver. Pull out on the lock cylinder to remove it. Alternatively, look for the small access hole on the forward-side of the ignition mechanism; it's just small enough to slip a small wire or straightened paperclip into. Insert the paperclip, and press down on the release mechanism, slowly turn the cylinder counterclockwise and wiggle it out of the ignition housing.
Install your new, factory cylinder in the reverse order of removal. The new lock cylinder just pops in place of the old one. If your car uses a transponder key, then you'll need to use a factory lock cylinder intended for your exact VIN number. If your dealership doesn't offer a matched ignition lock, then you'll need to order a matching lock and transponder key, then have the key programmed for your car.
