Building Beadlocks -Tight As A Tick - Jp Magazine

Verne Simons Senior Editor, Jp building Beadlocks Tight As A Tick beadlock Wheel Photo 44685352

Airing down. It’s like fine-tuning your tires’ performance for whatever off-road surface you are about to run them on. Running a lower air pressure off-road has good effects and some bad effects. The good is that the contact patch of the tire is much larger, which makes the tire grip more of whatever it’s on, wrapping the tread around rocks, sticks, dirt, and bumps. More traction means you go further down the trail. One of the unfortunate side effects is that a tire with less pressure is more likely to slip over the safety bead of the wheel. Once this happens, all the air escapes and you are left with a very flat tire that is only partially attached to the wheel. In a worst-case scenario you were just careening around a corner on a dirt road when your bead slipped. You lost control, your wheel acted like an anchor when it hit the ground, slung your Jeep around, and now your Jeep is on its side or lid. That’s bad…potentially very bad. What’s the fix? Well, you could run a slightly higher pressure like 20 psi. Or take a wheel and add a method to mechanically lock the bead of the tire to the wheel. Most do this with the addition of inner and outer rings that bolt together to clamp the tire to the outer lip of the wheel. Follow along as we take some beat-up, but otherwise awesome, old wheels and have them converted into a set of high-end beadlocks.

building Beadlocks Tight As A Tick damaged Wheel Bead Photo 45255284 We had this old set of forged Weld Super Single II wheels. We have been carrying these things around for 12 years or so. The outer lip of the wheels was beat up from years of use in the rocks, but they are straight. These wheels are forged, so they are super strong and relatively lightweight. They were not cheap wheels when we bought them new several years ago, but they have since been discontinued. PhotosView Slideshow Another slight hitch in our giddy-up was that our ’97 TJ has a 5-on-41⁄2 bolt pattern, while our old Welds are 5-on-51⁄2. No problem—we called up our friends at SpiderTrax for a set of Jeep CJ Conversion Adapters (PN WHS004). These are high-quality adapters and come with specific installation and maintenance instructions. If you want adapters or spacers, get good ones and maintain them. We used the supplied thread-lock and torqued the lug nuts to spec. Don’t use an air impact with adapters. Part of being a Jp product tester means we get to go to the desert and beat on stuff. We just got a new set of these sexy Pro Comp 35x12.50R15 Xtreme MT2s fresh from the mold. Our plan was to go out to the desert and keep dropping the tire pressure till we could predictably pop a bead. No such luck. We eventually got a tire to pop off the outer bead, but we did have to beat on it and it was anything but predictable. That’s the problem with blowing a bead. You never know when it might happen when aired down. One thing we can promise you is that it will happen when you least expect it. Luckily, with a little help from OMF Performance, we can avoid blown beads and bring our old beat-up Welds back from the dead. OMF Performance can convert almost any aluminum wheel into a beadlock. The company starts the conversion process by chucking the wheels into a great big lathe and cutting off the outer lip. If you want your factory or aftermarket wheels narrowed or widened, they can also do this for you. OMF also has tons of upgrades that you can add if you like rock domes or fancy machined outer rings. It can also build your wheels with faux beadlocks or reinforcing rings. For our beater ’97 TJ we asked OMF to maximize weight savings and strength. The solution is these lightweight pocketed inner rings. Our Welds gained only 4 lbs each with the beadlock conversion. OMF charges $225 per wheel for a basic conversion. The uber-lightweight inner rings are an additional $25. Some beadlocks simply drill and tap the aluminum. If the threads get damaged your expensive wheels are basically junk, but note the replaceable steel inserts of the OMF product. If the threads get damaged, you can easily replace them. Also, the aluminum can be machined with little knurls that help grab the tires bead. The outer beadlock ring can be made out of steel or aluminum. We generally prefer aluminum because both the inner and outer rings can be machined with a shoulder that holds the tire on the center of the ring. Steel is also heavier than aluminum, so properly engineered strong steel beadlocks gets heavy fast. Here you can see the two rings from our wheels that bolt together, pinching the tire’s bead bundle. Most currently available aluminum wheels, including true beadlocks, are cast and more prone to breaking than these forged Weld wheels. Our OMF Performance wheels are not DOT-approved for road use, but for a trail rig they can save you lots of time and headache dealing with popped beads. Maintenance includes checking the bolts of the beadlocks to make sure they are still at torque spec about every other oil change. Now we can air down to 6 psi, 4 psi, or heck, maybe with our lightweight Jeep even pull the valve core in some situations.