Mounting Tires At Home - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

Ali Mansour Brand Manager, 4WD & Sport Utility

One of the cheapest and simplest ways to improve your 4x4’s off-road performance is to reduce the air pressure in your tires. When you lower the pounds per square inch (psi) inside your tire, it allows the tire to flex and grip the terrain more effectively. For light-duty wheeling a traditional tire and wheel set can safely be aired down to 12-15 psi. While those air pressure numbers may seem low, on today’s Load Range D and E tires they often barley put a bulge in the tire—especially when mounted under a lightweight rig like a Jeep Wrangler. To get the most performance out of the tire while safely running extremely low air pressures, a beadlock wheel is an excellent upgrade.

mounting Tires At Home ali Mansour Installing Beadlocks Photo 35960617

A beadlock wheel secures the bead of the tire onto the wheel by clamping it between two surfaces that are bolted together. This allows you to run single-digit air pressure while safely holding the bead in position. Though a beadlock wheel might seem like a complicated animal, it’s actually pretty user friendly, and can even be assembled from the comfort of your own garage.

mounting Tires At Home pulling Valve Stem Photo 35960620 Installing the new valve stems should always be the first item on your install list. Trust us, it’s easy to forget! If you don’t have a valve stem tool you can use pliers to carefully pull each one through.

To show you a few tips and trick on how to assembly a beadlock wheel, we grabbed a set of 37x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTZ tires and mounted them on 17x81⁄2 American Expedition Vehicles (AEV) Pintler beadlock wheels. We’ll be putting this tire and wheel combo to the test under our Ranger project that you can read more about in this issue.

mounting Tires At Home putting Tire On Rim Photo 35960623 To get the inner bead onto the rim, use a gracious amount of soap and water, then with the wheel on the ground, press firmly onto the tire until it drops over the rim. Leaving the tire in the sun for a little while will help, as will a heavy-duty friend. PhotosView Slideshow With the inner bead on, prop the wheel atop a 5-gallon bucket. This allows the tire to drop more easily into the correct position and will help you center the tire on the wheel. To get the outer bead set in place, we’ve found using a dead-blow hammer and a flathead screwdriver works great. Once again, soap and water will make this much easier. We used a nut driver to start four of the provided Allen-head bolts at opposite points on the wheel. After the first four are snug, you can thread the rest in. Be sure to use antiseize on all of the bolts and always start each bolt by hand. To tighten the aluminum beadlock ring, work your way around the wheel in a crisscross pattern. You’ll tighten the bolts a little at a time, and yes, this is very time consuming. Never rush this or use air tools on these wheels. As the ring becomes closer to the wheel, swap over to a torque wrench and tighten all the bolts to 10 lb-ft. Once the ring is virtually flush, adjust the torque wrench to 15 lb-ft and make your final torque passes on the bolts. (Note: Different beadlock manufacturers require different torque specs.) Once you are finished there shouldn’t be any gap between the rim and the beadlock ring. To set the inner bead, remove the valve stem core and air up the tire. A high-volume air compressor will help to set the bead faster, but a standard air pump will work just fine. Don’t forget to retorque your beadlocks’ bolts after every wheeling outing. The safest way to check your bolts is to deflate the tire completely and, with it removed from the vehicle, work your way clockwise around the wheel.